All articles

A technique for constructing and turning a fully lined garment, such as a jacket, right side out through a small opening so all raw edges end up enclosed.

An industrial machine that sews a small, dense block of zigzag stitches to reinforce stress points such as pocket corners and belt loops.

French tailor who patented an early chainstitch sewing machine in 1830 to make army uniforms; rioting tailors, fearing job losses, destroyed his workshop in 1831.

An inset pocket finished with two narrow folded strips forming lips on either side of a slit opening, commonly used on tailored jackets and trousers.

A cutting technique in which pattern pieces are placed at a 45-degree angle to the fabric's grainline, producing extra drape, stretch, and a fluid hang.

A long sleeve that is full through the forearm and gathered into a fitted cuff at the wrist, historically associated with clerical and Victorian dress.

A tailored jacket, single- or double-breasted, structured with shoulder padding and often lapels, worn as smart separates rather than part of a matched suit.

A basic pattern shape, drafted to fit a specific set of body measurements without seam allowances or design details, used as the foundation for other patterns; called a sloper in American usage.

Dampening or steaming a piece, especially a knit, and pinning it to dry in a set shape and dimension to correct distortion before or after construction.

Bobbin thread that pulls with no resistance, causing loopy stitches, usually means the small screw on the bobbin case has loosened. Turn it slightly clockwise and test on scrap before sewing the garment.

A knitted or woven wool fabric that has been felted through heat, moisture and agitation, producing a dense, non-fraying fabric that needs no seam finishing.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, historically whalebone and now plastic or steel, inserted into channels within a bodice to maintain a fitted, structured shape.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, of steel, plastic or historically whalebone, inserted into channels to shape and support structured garments such as corsets and strapless bodices.

A Japanese tradition of patching and mending indigo cotton textiles with layered scraps, born of necessity among rural families from the Edo period into the 20th century and later admired as folk art.

A buttonhole finished with folded fabric strips, or lips, instead of thread, giving a tailored, couture-quality opening usually made before the garment is fully assembled.

An undergarment designed to support and shape the bust, typically constructed with cups, a band, and shoulder straps.

A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.

A skirt with an outer layer gathered at the waist and again at the hem into a lining, creating a rounded, puffed silhouette.

A very stiff, heavily sized woven or non-woven fabric used to add rigid structure, notably in hat brims, belts and structured bag panels.

A fitted, often boned bodice-length undergarment or top that shapes the torso from bust to waist, typically worn without a separate bra.

A dedicated industrial machine that automatically cuts and stitches buttonholes at high speed with consistent quality for mass garment production.