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The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the back torso pattern, incorporating the shoulder blade dart or ease, waist shaping, and armhole curve calculated from back body measurements.

Padded, adjustable shoulder straps constructed with webbing and sliders, engineered to distribute a backpack's weight and attach securely to its body at multiple points.

Rigid or semi-rigid panel, of plastic canvas, cardboard, or heavy interfacing, inserted into the bottom of a bag to help it hold its shape and stand upright.

The state of a garment hanging evenly on the body with its seams and grainlines running true, without twisting toward the front, back, or one side.

A regenerated cellulose fibre processed from bamboo pulp, marketed for softness and breathability though chemically similar to viscose rayon.

A short, dense zigzag or hand-worked reinforcement stitched at points of stress, such as pocket corners or fly ends, to prevent seams from tearing open.

A wax-resist dyeing technique in which molten wax is applied to fabric to block dye from certain areas, producing intricate patterns; long practiced in Indonesia, especially Java, and recognized by UNESCO in 2009.

Surface embellishment technique in which beads are stitched individually or in strings onto fabric with a beading needle and thread to create texture, pattern, or sparkle.

A sleeve fitted at the shoulder that flares progressively wider toward the wrist, producing a bell-shaped silhouette at the hem.

A trademarked lightweight cupro rayon lining fabric prized for a silk-like hand, breathability and antistatic properties compared with polyester linings.

Originally a term for custom tailoring made entirely to one individual customer's specifications, now used more loosely for any made-to-order garment.

A method of making a garment, typically a suit, individually from a unique pattern drafted to one client's measurements, involving multiple fittings and largely hand-sewn construction.

An early, not-yet-finalized version of a sewing pattern sent out to testers for feedback before the pattern's official public release.

The diagonal direction across a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the grainlines, along which fabric has maximum stretch and drape; used for bindings and fluid-cut garments.

Edges or seams that stretch and lose their shape happen when fabric cut near the bias grain is handled without support. Stay-stitch bias edges promptly after cutting and avoid pulling the fabric while sewing.

A narrow strip of bias-cut fabric sewn to an edge and turned to the inside, used to finish curved edges with minimal bulk.

A pattern alteration that adds or removes width in the upper sleeve to match an arm circumference that differs from the block's assumed bicep measurement.

The measurement taken around the fullest part of the upper arm, used to check and adjust the fit of a sleeve pattern.

A two-piece swimsuit consisting of a separate top and bottom that expose the midriff, typically constructed from stretch swim fabric.

A looped edge stitch that wraps around a raw or folded edge, used to finish edges or attach appliqué.

A hem stitched so the stitching is nearly invisible from the right side, worked by hand with a blind hemming stitch or by machine with a blind hem foot.

A presser foot with a guide bar that runs along a folded hem edge, positioning the needle to catch only a thread or two for an invisible hem.

A stitch pattern combining several straight stitches with a single zigzag jog, used with a folded hem to catch fabric almost invisibly from the right side.

Fusing interfacing to a large piece of fabric before the pattern pieces are cut from it, ensuring even stability and grain alignment across every piece.

Hand-printing technique in which a carved wooden or linoleum block is inked or dyed and pressed onto fabric to transfer a repeating design.

Loose trousers gathered at the ankle, worn under a shorter skirt and popularized by Amelia Bloomer in the 1850s as a practical, controversial alternative to restrictive Victorian dress.

Fine-tuning the small screw on the bobbin case that controls how much resistance the lower thread meets, used to correct or balance stitch formation.

A basic sloper covering the torso from shoulder to waist, fitted with darts to the bust and waist, used as the foundation for drafting bodices, tops, and dresses.

The process of constructing a fitted torso pattern from a set of body measurements using drafting formulas and a straightedge, producing front and back pieces shaped with darts.

A pattern hacking technique that extends a bodice pattern's hemline and adjusts its shaping to convert a top pattern into a full dress pattern.

A one-piece garment combining a jacket and trousers into a single front-zippered or buttoned suit, designed to protect the wearer's clothing during manual work.

A short jacket with a fitted, ribbed waistband and cuffs, a front zipper closure, and a rounded collar, originating from military flight wear.

A finish in which a folded binding strip encases the raw edge of a seam allowance, stitched through all layers; used when a seam will remain unlined and visible.

A pleat formed by two folds turned away from each other on the front, creating a flat panel with fabric hidden behind it on both sides.

An unstructured, unpadded bra typically without underwire, made from soft or stretch fabric and intended for light support or as outerwear.

A pattern alteration that adds width across the upper back of a bodice pattern, usually by slashing and spreading, to accommodate a back broader than the block assumes.

A whitework embroidery technique featuring patterns of small cut-out holes stitched around their edges, often sold ready-made as a fabric or trim.

Bag pattern with a round or oval base and cylindrical body that tapers slightly, typically closed with a drawstring, zip, or flap at the top.

Lumpy, hard-to-press seams at corners or curves come from leaving full seam allowance width in places that need to fold or turn. Trim, grade, and clip curves to reduce bulk before pressing.

Excess fabric that folds or gathers at the underarm seam of a bodice or sleeve, typically caused by an armhole cut too large or too deep for the wearer.