Fit & patternmaking

The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the back torso pattern, incorporating the shoulder blade dart or ease, waist shaping, and armhole curve calculated from back body measurements.

The vertical distance from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline, used to check and adjust bodice length on a pattern.

The state of a garment hanging evenly on the body with its seams and grainlines running true, without twisting toward the front, back, or one side.

Marks placed on pattern pieces to indicate where two edges of different lengths, such as a sleeve cap and armhole, should align during construction so ease is distributed correctly.

A general term for any foundational, unfitted-detail pattern piece—such as a bodice, skirt, sleeve, or trouser block—from which other pattern designs are developed.

A pattern alteration that adds or removes width in the upper sleeve to match an arm circumference that differs from the block's assumed bicep measurement.

The circumference of the upper arm at its fullest point, used to ensure adequate width across the sleeve cap and upper sleeve of a garment.

A basic sloper covering the torso from shoulder to waist, fitted with darts to the bust and waist, used as the foundation for drafting bodices, tops, and dresses.

The process of constructing a fitted torso pattern from a set of body measurements using drafting formulas and a straightedge, producing front and back pieces shaped with darts.

A pattern hacking technique that extends a bodice pattern's hemline and adjusts its shaping to convert a top pattern into a full dress pattern.

A pattern alteration that adds width across the upper back of a bodice pattern, usually by slashing and spreading, to accommodate a back broader than the block assumes.

Excess fabric that folds or gathers at the underarm seam of a bodice or sleeve, typically caused by an armhole cut too large or too deep for the wearer.

The horizontal circumference of the torso taken around the fullest part of the bust, used as a primary reference point for bodice and dress pattern sizing.