Fit & patternmaking

A skirt draft based on radius calculations from the waist measurement, producing a pattern that flares in a full circle or half circle without darts.

The process of constructing a collar pattern shaped to fit a garment's neckline, determining the collar's stand height, fall, and roll line based on the desired style.

The curved seam line of a trouser pattern that shapes the crotch area between the front and back leg pieces, critical to comfort and the elimination of crotch wrinkles.

The vertical distance from the waist to the seat while seated, used in trouser drafting to position the crotch line and set the rise of the pattern.

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the crotch seam of trousers, indicating that the crotch curve, rise, or crotch length does not match the wearer's body shape.

The process of constructing a band or shaped pattern piece that finishes the opening of a sleeve at the wrist, sized to the wrist measurement plus ease for closure.

A manual grading method in which a pattern is sliced along designated lines and spread apart or overlapped by fixed increments to create a larger or smaller size.