Fabrics & materials

A sturdy cotton twill fabric, traditionally indigo-dyed on the warp with an undyed weft, used for jeans and workwear; presses and topstitches well.

A sewing machine needle with a strong, slim, sharp point designed to penetrate tightly woven heavy fabrics such as denim and canvas without deflecting.

A firm, stable knit fabric produced on a machine with two sets of needles, identical on both faces, holding its shape well and resisting curling at cut edges.

The way a fabric falls, folds and moves under its own weight, ranging from fluid, as in chiffon and jersey, to stiff, as in canvas and taffeta; a key factor in pattern choice.

A garment-cleaning process using chemical solvents instead of water, required for fabrics that distort, shrink or bleed dye when laundered, such as wool suiting and structured silks.

Crisp, lustrous silk woven from irregular, slubbed yarn, producing a fabric with a slight sheen and characteristic texture, popular for structured garments and eveningwear.