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A decorative technique that joins two finished edges with an open, ladder-like pattern of stitches across a visible gap, rather than a closed seam.

A hooped or padded understructure worn beneath skirts from the 15th to early 17th centuries to create a rigid conical or wheel-shaped silhouette, first developed in Spain.

A small, slanted hand stitch used to permanently secure a folded edge flat against another layer, such as a facing or waistband lining, common in couture finishing.

A person with standardized body measurements who tries on sample garments during development so a design house can check and refine the fit.

A serger stitch sewn with loose tension so the seam pulls flat and open, leaving a ladder of thread on one side, often used decoratively on knits.

Corduroy or velvet that looks crushed after ironing comes from pressing directly on the pile with a flat iron sole. Press face-down on a towel or use a needle board so the pile can stand.

A zipper closure concealed behind an extended, shaped fly facing and underlap, typical of trousers and jeans.

A pattern alteration that reshapes the lower portion of a sleeve to accommodate a forearm that is bent, muscular, or otherwise shaped differently from the standard block.

A pattern alteration that rotates the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern forward to match shoulders that sit ahead of the torso's standard balance line.

An overlock stitch using two needle threads and two looper threads to form a durable seam that both sews and finishes an edge in one pass.

Decorative stitching created by manually guiding fabric under a lowered or disengaged feed dog, allowing the stitcher to draw with thread in any direction.

A doubled-back shirt cuff, folded over and fastened with cufflinks rather than a button, giving a dressier finish.

A short thread chain, several strands long, connecting a lining to a garment at the hem, allowing movement without the layers separating.

A decorative fastening of intricately knotted cord or braid, with a button-like knot and a loop, traditionally used on Chinese-style and Asian-inspired garments.

A suit-jacket construction in which a floating canvas interlining is sewn, not glued, throughout the front, allowing the jacket to mold to the wearer's body over time.