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Flat-felled seam
A strong, fully enclosed seam in which one seam allowance is trimmed, wrapped around the other, and topstitched flat; common on jeans and shirts.
intermediate · Seams
Flatbed sewing machine
A sewing machine with a continuous flat sewing surface and no removable arm, providing a larger work area suited to flat garment pieces and yardage.
beginner · Sewing machine types
Flatlock stitch
A serger stitch sewn with loose tension so the seam pulls flat and open, leaving a ladder of thread on one side, often used decoratively on knits.
advanced · Overlockers & coverstitch
Flattened pile fabric
Corduroy or velvet that looks crushed after ironing comes from pressing directly on the pile with a flat iron sole. Press face-down on a towel or use a needle board so the pile can stand.
advanced · Pressing problems
Fleece fabric
A brushed, napped knit fabric, typically polyester, engineered for warmth and softness with a plush pile on one or both sides.
beginner · Knit fabrics
Fly stitch
Hand embroidery stitch resembling an open V anchored by a short tacking stitch, used singly or in rows to suggest foliage, texture, or decorative seam ornamentation.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fly-front zipper
A zipper closure concealed behind an extended, shaped fly facing and underlap, typical of trousers and jeans.
advanced · Closures
Foam stabilizer (bag making)
Thick foam interfacing fused or sewn between fabric layers to give bags and structured accessories body, shape retention, and padding.
beginner · Interfacing & stabilisers
Fold-over elastic
A narrow elastic with a centre channel that folds crisply in half, used to bind and finish edges such as necklines and leg openings in one step.
intermediate · Trims & tapes
Forearm adjustment
A pattern alteration that reshapes the lower portion of a sleeve to accommodate a forearm that is bent, muscular, or otherwise shaped differently from the standard block.
advanced · Fit adjustments
Forward shoulder
A posture or body shape in which the shoulders sit rotated forward of the torso's natural balance line, causing the shoulder seam of a garment to pull toward the front.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Forward shoulder adjustment
A pattern alteration that rotates the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern forward to match shoulders that sit ahead of the torso's standard balance line.
advanced · Fit adjustments
Foundation pattern
A term for a basic block or sloper used as the structural starting point for developing new pattern designs through slashing, spreading, or adding style lines.
beginner · Pattern blocks
Four-thread overlock seam
A seam sewn on a serger using two needles and two loopers, producing a seam and finished edge simultaneously with stretch recovery suited to knits.
intermediate · Knits & stretch
Four-thread overlock stitch
An overlock stitch using two needle threads and two looper threads to form a durable seam that both sews and finishes an edge in one pass.
advanced · Overlockers & coverstitch
Four-way stretch
Fabric that stretches and recovers its shape in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, common in swimwear, activewear, and dancewear.
intermediate · Fabric & grain terms
Frankenpattern
A hybrid pattern created by combining pieces or design elements from two or more different existing patterns into one new design.
intermediate · Community slang & abbreviations
Fray
The gradual unraveling of a cut fabric edge as individual threads work themselves loose from the weave over time or handling.
beginner · Fabric & grain terms
Fraying edges before construction
Cut edges unraveling before a seam is even sewn is common on loosely woven fabrics like linen. Finish edges early with pinking shears, a zigzag stitch, or fray-check liquid.
beginner · Fabric handling problems
Free-motion embroidery
Decorative stitching created by manually guiding fabric under a lowered or disengaged feed dog, allowing the stitcher to draw with thread in any direction.
advanced · Embroidery & software
Free-motion quilting foot
A spring-loaded presser foot that hovers just above the fabric, letting the quilter move the fabric freely in any direction with the feed dogs lowered.
intermediate · Presser feet
Freearm sewing machine
A machine whose bed narrows into a slim, removable arm, allowing tubular items such as sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs to be sewn without flattening the fabric.
beginner · Sewing machine types
French cuff
A doubled-back shirt cuff, folded over and fastened with cufflinks rather than a button, giving a dressier finish.
advanced · Sleeves & cuffs
French curve
A curved plastic drafting template used to draw smooth, precise curved lines when drafting or adjusting armholes, necklines, and other patternmaking curves.
intermediate · Marking & measuring
French dart
A long, diagonal dart running from the side seam near the hip up toward the bust point, shaping the garment with a single seam line.
intermediate · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
French knot
Small raised hand embroidery stitch made by wrapping thread around the needle before reinserting it close to the exit point, used for dots, flower centres, and texture.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
French seam
A self-enclosed seam made by stitching a narrow seam wrong sides together, trimming it, then encasing the raw edge inside a second seam sewn right sides together; used on sheer or unlined fabrics.
intermediate · Seams
French tack
A short thread chain, several strands long, connecting a lining to a garment at the hem, allowing movement without the layers separating.
advanced · Couture
French terry
A soft knit fabric with looped, uncut loops on the reverse side and a smooth face, lighter than fleece and common in casual sweatshirts.
beginner · Knit fabrics
Fringe trim
Decorative trim made of hanging threads, cords, or strands attached along one edge, applied to hems, shawls, or cushions for added texture and movement.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Frog closure
A decorative fastening of intricately knotted cord or braid, with a button-like knot and a loop, traditionally used on Chinese-style and Asian-inspired garments.
advanced · Fastenings & hardware
Frog it
To rip out a section of stitching, or abandon a project entirely, from the rhyme 'rip it, rip it' echoing a frog's croak.
beginner · Community slang & abbreviations
Front bodice draft
The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the front torso pattern, incorporating the bust dart, waist dart, neckline, and armhole curve calculated from front body measurements.
intermediate · Drafting bodices
Full abdomen
A stomach shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal drag lines below the waist and a front hemline that rises above the back.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Full abdomen adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the front of a skirt or trouser pattern below the waist to accommodate a stomach fuller than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Full bust
A measurement taken horizontally around the body at the fullest, most projecting point of the bust, one of the core measurements used to choose pattern size.
beginner · Measurement terms
Full bust adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the bust area of a bodice, typically by slashing and spreading the pattern, to fit a bust larger than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Full canvas construction
A suit-jacket construction in which a floating canvas interlining is sewn, not glued, throughout the front, allowing the jacket to mold to the wearer's body over time.
advanced · Tailoring traditions
Full seat
A seat shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal wrinkles below the waistband and drag lines pulling across the back of trousers or a skirt.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Full seat adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to accommodate a seat fuller than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments