Fit & patternmaking

The actual dimensions of a completed garment as it lies flat, distinct from the body measurements it is intended to fit, showing the ease built into the design.

A second person who helps assess and pin fit corrections on a garment being fitted, since many fitting problems are difficult to see or reach alone.

A structured process of trying on a toile or garment in progress, observing wrinkles and balance, and marking or pinning changes to correct the fit.

A simplified test garment, usually a bodice or trouser front and back with minimal design details, sewn specifically to evaluate and correct fit before developing a full pattern block.

A seat shape flatter than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing excess fabric to sag and fold vertically below the waistband at the back of trousers or a skirt.

A pattern alteration that removes excess width and length from the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to fit a seat flatter than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that reshapes the lower portion of a sleeve to accommodate a forearm that is bent, muscular, or otherwise shaped differently from the standard block.

A posture or body shape in which the shoulders sit rotated forward of the torso's natural balance line, causing the shoulder seam of a garment to pull toward the front.

A pattern alteration that rotates the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern forward to match shoulders that sit ahead of the torso's standard balance line.

A term for a basic block or sloper used as the structural starting point for developing new pattern designs through slashing, spreading, or adding style lines.

The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the front torso pattern, incorporating the bust dart, waist dart, neckline, and armhole curve calculated from front body measurements.

A stomach shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal drag lines below the waist and a front hemline that rises above the back.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the front of a skirt or trouser pattern below the waist to accommodate a stomach fuller than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the bust area of a bodice, typically by slashing and spreading the pattern, to fit a bust larger than the block assumes.

A seat shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal wrinkles below the waistband and drag lines pulling across the back of trousers or a skirt.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to accommodate a seat fuller than the block assumes.