All articles

A resist-dyeing technique in which yarns are bound and dyed in patterns before weaving, so the design emerges from the woven cloth itself; practiced across Southeast Asia, Central Asia, and Latin America.

A pocket concealed within a garment's side seam, formed from pocket bag pieces stitched into the seam allowance so no opening shows on the outside.

A small, independently run sewing pattern company or individual designer, as distinct from one of the major legacy pattern brands.

A sewing pattern published by a small, independently owned designer or company, rather than by one of the larger legacy pattern brands.

A surge from around 2010 of small, independently run sewing pattern companies selling PDF and print patterns directly to consumers online, diversifying styles and sizing beyond major pattern companies.

A sewing pattern produced by a small, independent design company rather than a major commercial publisher, typically sold as a PDF or printed copy-shop format.

Traditional dyeing process using the blue pigment derived from indigo plants, requiring an oxygen-reducing vat; the fabric turns blue as it oxidises after removal from the dye.

A heavy-duty, single-purpose machine built for continuous high-speed production sewing, typically mounted in a table with a separate motor and few domestic conveniences.

The measurement of a pant leg from the crotch seam down to the desired hem, taken along the inner leg seam.

A seam allowance too narrow to sew, or that frays away, results from cutting too close to the cutting line or forgetting to add allowance to a pattern with none included. Always confirm before cutting.

A supporting fabric layer applied to the wrong side of garment sections such as collars, cuffs and waistbands to add body, stability and shape retention.

An extra layer of fabric sewn in between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, usually added for warmth or extra structure.

A double-knit fabric structure with two sets of needles that produces identical, smooth faces on both sides, more stable and less curling than single jersey.

A pleat formed by two folds turned toward each other on the front, the mirror of a box pleat, hiding extra fabric behind the fold.

A repair technique aimed at hiding damage completely, using matching thread or fine reweaving so the fix disappears into the surrounding fabric. Requires close color and weave matching for a seamless result.

A zip whose teeth are concealed behind a folded tape, sewn with a special foot so only a thin seam-like line shows on the finished garment.

A zipper with coils rolled to the back so the teeth are hidden within the seam when closed, inserted with a special foot so no stitching shows on the right side.

Safety practices for handling a hot iron, including using a heatproof surface, an auto-shutoff feature, and keeping the cord and iron clear of reach when unattended.

Interfacing lifting away from fabric in little bubbles after fusing comes from too little heat, pressure, or time, or sliding the iron instead of pressing straight down. Re-fuse with steam and firm, held pressure.

American manufacturer who patented an improved sewing machine in 1851 and pioneered installment purchasing, making the Singer Manufacturing Company the dominant sewing machine brand of the 19th century.

Japanese designer known for technical innovation, notably the Pleats Please line launched in 1993, which heat-set permanent pleats into finished polyester garments rather than pleating fabric before cutting.