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An openwork fabric formed by looping, twisting or knotting threads into a patterned net, ranging from delicate Chantilly to heavy guipure; usually underlined or lined.

A narrow strip of lace fabric, often with one finished scalloped edge, applied to garment edges or seams as embellishment.

An invisible hand stitch worked between two folded edges, drawing them together in a closed seam commonly used to close stuffed items or linings.

A seam formed by overlapping two folded or finished edges and stitching through both layers, leaving no bulk underneath; used on interfaced or leather pieces.

A zipper insertion in which one side of fabric overlaps the zipper tape, concealing it under a flap of fabric, commonly used at side seams.

Durable, often historically inspired costume made for live action role-play, prioritising freedom of movement, washability, and comfort over screen-accurate detail or fragile materials.

A diagram showing exactly how pattern pieces are positioned on a given fabric width to minimize waste, used especially in production cutting.

Detached chain hand embroidery stitch anchored with a small tacking stitch at the loop's end, commonly grouped in clusters to form petals or leaves.

The length of time between placing an order with a manufacturer and actually receiving the finished, produced goods.

Tanned animal hide used as a non-woven material for garments and accessories, sewn without seam allowances left to fray and typically glued or clipped rather than pinned.

A sewing machine needle with a wedge-shaped cutting point that pierces leather and vinyl cleanly rather than tearing the material.

A sleeve that is voluminous and gathered from the shoulder to the elbow, then fitted closely from elbow to wrist, resembling a mutton leg in profile.

Close-fitting, ankle-length trousers made from stretch knit fabric, cut without a fly or structured waistband and typically finished with an elasticated waist.

A basic pattern alteration performed at printed lengthen-or-shorten lines to change a garment's length in a chosen area without distorting its proportions or seam shapes.

Extending sleeves that fall short requires a deeper hem let down, an added cuff, or a contrasting fabric extension at the wrist. Check there's enough hem allowance before promising extra length.

The direction fabric threads run parallel to the selvedge, usually the strongest and least stretchy direction in a woven fabric.

Adding room to a garment that's too tight relies on unpicking the existing seam and resewing with a narrower allowance, which only works if enough seam allowance remains. Check the seam before promising this alteration.

A rippled, wavy hem edge created by stretching a knit fabric while stitching a narrow zigzag or rolled hem, causing the edge to curl and flute.

A knit edge that ripples into an unwanted wavy, frilled finish happens when fabric was stretched while being serged or hemmed. Ease the fabric through the machine without pulling and use a less dense stitch.

American company founded in San Francisco in the 1850s; with tailor Jacob Davis it patented riveted denim work trousers in 1873, creating what became known as blue jeans.

A simple black-and-white technical sketch, shown on a pattern envelope or in the instructions, illustrating a garment's design without color or fabric texture.

A document summarizing a season's products with images, prices, and ordering details, sent by a fashion brand out to its retail buyers.

A strong, absorbent bast fibre spun from the stems of the flax plant, known for crisp hand, natural lustre and a tendency to wrinkle; sews well but frays readily.

A separate inner layer of fabric that finishes the inside of a garment, hiding seams and construction while adding comfort and reducing friction against the body.

A smooth, often lightweight fabric sewn inside a garment to conceal construction, reduce friction against the body, and help the outer fabric hold its shape.

A small brush used to clear fabric lint and thread debris from the bobbin case, feed dogs, and tension mechanism during routine cleaning.

The most common machine stitch, formed by an upper needle thread interlocking with a lower bobbin thread inside the fabric; it appears identical on both sides and resists unraveling.

A large frame-mounted machine with an extended arm that moves freely over a stationary, frame-stretched quilt sandwich, used to stitch large quilts without repositioning the fabric.

A hook-like mechanism on an overlocker or coverstitch machine that carries thread beneath the needle plate to interlock with needle threads, forming the stitch's underside.

Visible loops sitting proud of the seam point to unbalanced tension, most often a bobbin thread with too little resistance. Rethread top and bobbin, adjust tension gradually, and test on scrap first.

Stitches that sit slack and don't lock into the fabric come from top tension set too low. Increase the top tension gradually and test until stitches lock in the middle of the fabric.

DuPont's trademark name for spandex, an elastic polyurethane fiber developed by Joseph Shivers and launched in 1958, which revolutionized fitted and stretch clothing from swimwear to leggings.