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A seam formed by overlapping two folded or finished edges and stitching through both layers, leaving no bulk underneath; used on interfaced or leather pieces.

Detached chain hand embroidery stitch anchored with a small tacking stitch at the loop's end, commonly grouped in clusters to form petals or leaves.

Close-fitting, ankle-length trousers made from stretch knit fabric, cut without a fly or structured waistband and typically finished with an elasticated waist.

A basic pattern alteration performed at printed lengthen-or-shorten lines to change a garment's length in a chosen area without distorting its proportions or seam shapes.

The direction fabric threads run parallel to the selvedge, usually the strongest and least stretchy direction in a woven fabric.

A simple black-and-white technical sketch, shown on a pattern envelope or in the instructions, illustrating a garment's design without color or fabric texture.

A strong, absorbent bast fibre spun from the stems of the flax plant, known for crisp hand, natural lustre and a tendency to wrinkle; sews well but frays readily.

A separate inner layer of fabric that finishes the inside of a garment, hiding seams and construction while adding comfort and reducing friction against the body.

A smooth, often lightweight fabric sewn inside a garment to conceal construction, reduce friction against the body, and help the outer fabric hold its shape.

A small brush used to clear fabric lint and thread debris from the bobbin case, feed dogs, and tension mechanism during routine cleaning.

The most common machine stitch, formed by an upper needle thread interlocking with a lower bobbin thread inside the fabric; it appears identical on both sides and resists unraveling.

Visible loops sitting proud of the seam point to unbalanced tension, most often a bobbin thread with too little resistance. Rethread top and bobbin, adjust tension gradually, and test on scrap first.

Stitches that sit slack and don't lock into the fabric come from top tension set too low. Increase the top tension gradually and test until stitches lock in the middle of the fabric.