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Pressing both seam allowances together in the same direction, adding strength and often required before edge-stitching or topstitching.

A shiny, flattened patch on fabric after ironing comes from too much heat and pressure crushing the fibers, common on wool and synthetics. Press with a pressing cloth and let steam, not pressure, do the work.

French for 'ready to wear,' describing standard-sized clothing manufactured for general sale rather than garments custom fitted to one person.

A variation of backstitch that picks up only a tiny amount of fabric on the right side, used to hand-set zippers or topstitch in couture work almost invisibly.

A bodice draft in which the bust and waist darts are converted into a continuous curved seam running from the shoulder or armhole to the hem, replacing separate darts.

A fit alteration made along a princess seam, reshaping the curve between the panels to add or remove fullness at the bust, waist, or hip without adding a separate dart.

Products that are manufactured by one company but sold to the public under a different company's own brand name.

A finalized manufacturing pattern, complete with every size graded and all construction markings added, ready to be used on a factory floor.

A method of tracing sewing patterns directly onto fabric by projecting a digital pattern file onto a cutting surface using a video projector and calibration software.

A back shape in which the shoulder blades project more than the standard pattern block assumes, causing tightness and horizontal drag lines across the upper back.

A seam that gathers or ripples along its length is caused by tension set too tight, a stitch length wrong for the fabric, or sewing fine fabric without stabilizing. Loosen tension and stabilize lightweight fabrics.

Small folds at the top of a set-in sleeve cap come from easing stitches not distributed evenly around the curve. Run two rows of ease stitching, gather gently, and pin generously before sewing.

Topstitching that gathers fabric into small folds instead of lying flat comes from tension too tight, a stitch too dense, or sewing bulky layers without a walking foot. Loosen tension and use a walking foot.

A zipper tape that ripples once pressed, though it lay flat while sewing, comes from ironing directly over the teeth and tape without support underneath. Press from the wrong side over a seam roll.

A short or long sleeve gathered at the shoulder, cuff, or both, creating a rounded, voluminous shape through the upper or lower arm.

Metal or plastic hinged frame sewn or glued into fabric to form the opening of a clasp purse, giving the bag a rigid, self-closing top edge.