Fit & patternmaking

The technique of combining pattern pieces or size lines from two or more patterns, or two adjacent sizes, into a single custom pattern piece.

The practice of modifying an existing commercial or drafted sewing pattern to create a different design, such as changing a neckline, sleeve, or silhouette, without drafting from scratch.

The standard information printed or written on each pattern piece, including the piece name, cut quantity, grainline, and size, needed to identify and cut it correctly.

A sloper drafted or fitted specifically to one individual's body measurements rather than a standard size, used to produce well-fitting patterns for that person alone.

A set of proportional alterations, usually shortening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a shorter-than-average body.

A pattern alteration technique in which a section of a pattern is pivoted around a fixed point and slid to add or remove width or length without cutting the pattern apart.

A dart manipulation technique that moves a dart to a new position by pivoting the pattern piece around the dart apex without cutting the paper apart.

A true vertical reference line, established with a weighted string or level, used during fitting to check whether a garment's center front, center back, or side seam hangs straight.

Excess fabric that collects and folds in a concentrated area of a garment, such as below the seat or at the small of the back, rather than lying smooth.

Garment modification, such as side-seam openings or drain access points, designed to be worn comfortably over dressings or medical equipment during recovery.

A bodice draft in which the bust and waist darts are converted into a continuous curved seam running from the shoulder or armhole to the hem, replacing separate darts.

A fit alteration made along a princess seam, reshaping the curve between the panels to add or remove fullness at the bust, waist, or hip without adding a separate dart.

A back shape in which the shoulder blades project more than the standard pattern block assumes, causing tightness and horizontal drag lines across the upper back.