Fit & patternmaking

A dart originating at the shoulder seam and pointing toward the bust apex, used in bodice drafting as an alternative location to shape fabric over the bust.

The angle of the shoulder measured from a horizontal reference line, used to identify square or sloping shoulders and to adjust the shoulder seam of a pattern.

A basic sloper covering the body from waist to hip level, fitted with darts to the waist, used as the foundation for drafting skirt designs.

The process of constructing a skirt pattern from waist and hip measurements, typically starting from a basic skirt block and shaping it into a chosen silhouette.

A basic sloper for a set-in sleeve, drafted to match the armhole of a corresponding bodice block, used as the foundation for drafting sleeve designs.

A modification made to an existing sleeve pattern, such as adding a flounce, changing the length, or converting a set-in sleeve into a different sleeve style.

A pattern alteration that lowers the shoulder point of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders more angled downward than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape more angled downward than the standard pattern block assumes, causing diagonal drag lines from the neckline to the shoulder point and a gaping armhole.

A pattern alteration that removes width and length from the bust area of a bodice, typically by overlapping the pattern, to fit a bust smaller than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that raises and extends the shoulder line of a bodice pattern outward to fit shoulders flatter than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape flatter and less sloped than the standard pattern block assumes, causing wrinkles to radiate from the neck and excess fabric to pool near the shoulder tip.

A posture characterized by an exaggerated inward curve of the lower spine, causing horizontal folds of excess fabric to form across the back of a garment at the waist.

A pattern alteration that removes excess length and width from the center back of a bodice or dress pattern to eliminate horizontal folds caused by a swayed back posture.