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A crisp, smooth plain-weave fabric with a fine ribbed texture and characteristic rustle, used in eveningwear and linings; frays and shows needle holes easily.

A firmly stuffed, curved pressing cushion used to press darts, curved seams, and shaped areas like bust and hip curves without flattening the curve.

A trade association of professional tailors that historically regulated training, quality standards, and apprenticeship, common in European cities from the medieval period through the 19th century.

An oscillating arm on the machine head that pulls thread from the spool, feeds slack to the needle, and draws thread up after each stitch is formed.

Reducing a garment that's too loose is done by pinning out excess at the side seams or darts while worn, then restitching those seams narrower and trimming the extra allowance away.

A set of proportional alterations, usually lengthening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a taller-than-average body.

A presser foot with a non-stick coated sole that glides smoothly over vinyl, leather, and other sticky materials without dragging or marking them.

A branded regenerated cellulose fibre (lyocell) made from sustainably sourced wood pulp using a closed-loop process, noted for softness, drape and moisture management.

A pair of metal discs that the upper thread passes between, applying adjustable pressure to balance thread tightness against the bobbin thread for even stitches.

The practice of transforming used fabric, garments, or offcuts into new items of equal or greater value rather than discarding or downcycling them, a core strategy of sustainable fashion.

Thread fraying into fuzz or snapping into short pieces usually means it's catching on a burred needle eye or thread guide, or is old and brittle. Replace the needle, check guides for nicks, use fresh thread.

An armhole cut too small or positioned too high for the wearer, restricting arm movement and often pulling the underarm seam of the bodice or sleeve.

British sewing pattern designer and author who founded the independent pattern company Tilly and the Buttons in 2011, known for beginner-friendly patterns and a popular sewing blog and YouTube channel.

A machine needle with an extra-large eye and a deep groove designed to accommodate thick topstitching or decorative thread without excess friction.

A heavier-weight decorative thread used for visible topstitching, such as on jeans, giving a bolder line than standard construction thread.

The measurement taken from the base of the neck down through the crotch, used especially to fit bodysuits, leotards, and swimwear correctly.

A foot-powered sewing machine driven by a pedal connected to a flywheel via a belt, requiring no electricity, common before electric machines became standard.

A finish in which a strip of stretch tricot bias tape is wrapped and stitched over the raw seam edge, common in ready-to-wear tailoring.

A basic sloper shaped to the lower body from waist to ankle, incorporating the crotch curve, used as the foundation for drafting trouser and pants designs.

The process of separating a back-waist design line from a trouser block to create a yoke pattern piece, often absorbing the waist dart into its seam.

The exact forty-five degree diagonal line between the lengthwise and crosswise grain, the direction where a woven fabric stretches the most.

A small stitched fold of fabric, similar to a pleat but generally narrower, used mainly for decorative effect or subtle shaping.

A raised ridge forming along a line of stitching on stretch fabric happens when tension is too tight or the stitch is too dense for the fabric's give. Loosen tension and use a walking foot with a stabilizer.

A flat, tightly woven twill-weave tape used to stabilise seams, reinforce waistbands, and bind edges without adding bulk.

A sewing machine needle with two shafts joined to a single shank, producing two parallel rows of stitching on top and a zigzag underneath, used for hems on knits.

A hem stitched with a double needle to create two parallel rows of straight stitching on top and a zigzag-like stretch stitch underneath, standard for knit hems.

A side seam or inseam that spirals around the leg or body instead of running straight comes from pieces cut off-grain or one layer eased more than the other while sewing. Recut on true grain where possible.