Fit & patternmaking

A set of proportional alterations, usually lengthening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a taller-than-average body.

An armhole cut too small or positioned too high for the wearer, restricting arm movement and often pulling the underarm seam of the bodice or sleeve.

A trial garment made from inexpensive fabric to test and refine the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting the intended fashion fabric.

The process of copying a pattern piece, whether from a commercial pattern, a garment, or another pattern, onto new paper so the original can be preserved and the copy altered.

A basic sloper shaped to the lower body from waist to ankle, incorporating the crotch curve, used as the foundation for drafting trouser and pants designs.

The process of constructing a trouser pattern from waist, hip, crotch, and leg measurements, shaping the crotch curve, inseam, and outseam of the front and back leg pieces.

The pattern pieces and construction lines for a trouser's front closure, including the fly extension, fly shield, and zipper placement, added to the basic trouser front.

The process of separating a back-waist design line from a trouser block to create a yoke pattern piece, often absorbing the waist dart into its seam.

A draping technique in which fabric is positioned at a forty-five degree angle to the grainline before pinning, exploiting bias stretch to create soft, body-skimming folds.