Terms & glossary

A basic pattern shape, drafted to fit a specific set of body measurements without seam allowances or design details, used as the foundation for other patterns; called a sloper in American usage.

Short for 'cut, make, trim,' a manufacturing arrangement in which a factory cuts and sews garments from fabric and materials the client already supplies.

The width measured straight across the upper back from one armhole seam to the other, used to check the fit of a garment's shoulders and back.

The technique of moving a dart from one location on a pattern to another while keeping the garment's overall fit and shape unchanged.

A person with standardized body measurements who tries on sample garments during development so a design house can check and refine the fit.

In industry usage, the process of mathematically scaling a base pattern up and down to create a full, consistent range of sizes for production.

Historically, a dealer in small sewing goods and trimmings in Britain, or a dealer in men's clothing and furnishings in the United States.

A diagram showing exactly how pattern pieces are positioned on a given fabric width to minimize waste, used especially in production cutting.

The length of time between placing an order with a manufacturer and actually receiving the finished, produced goods.

A document summarizing a season's products with images, prices, and ordering details, sent by a fashion brand out to its retail buyers.

The historical occupational term, common through the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, for a dressmaker who specialized in making women's gowns.

Short for 'minimum order quantity,' the smallest amount of fabric or finished product that a manufacturer or supplier is willing to sell in one order.

A French draping technique of shaping fabric directly on a body or dress form to create a closely fitted base pattern from scratch.

The French term for elaborate trimmings such as decorative braid, tassels, and cord, used to embellish garments as well as upholstery and home decor.

The fixed reference point on a pattern, often a bust point or hip point, around which a dart is rotated during dart manipulation.

Products that are manufactured by one company but sold to the public under a different company's own brand name.

A finalized manufacturing pattern, complete with every size graded and all construction markings added, ready to be used on a factory floor.

The American term for a basic, made-to-fit pattern with no seam allowances or style lines, used as a foundation when drafting new pattern designs; called a block in British usage.

A document listing a garment's precise measurements at every key point, used by a manufacturer to keep sizing consistent across a production run.

A historical term for a woman who worked as a tailor, constructing structured, fitted garments such as suits, coats, and riding habits.

A detailed technical document sent to a garment manufacturer specifying exact measurements, materials, construction steps, and trims needed for production.

The measurement taken across the back from wrist to wrist with both arms outstretched, occasionally used to check sleeve and shoulder width in a pattern.

The measurement taken from the neckline down to the point where a shoulder yoke seam sits on a shirt or dress pattern.