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The lengthwise direction of woven fabric threads, running parallel to the selvedge, that pattern pieces must be aligned to so a garment hangs and fits correctly.

The double-headed arrow printed on a pattern piece that shows how the piece should be aligned with the fabric's lengthwise grain when laid out.

A straight arrow printed or drawn on a pattern piece indicating the direction the lengthwise fabric grain must run when the piece is laid out for cutting.

Stitched horizontal tuck added to a child's garment hem or sleeve to shorten it temporarily, released later to lengthen the garment as the child grows.

A shop, or its stock of goods, selling sewing notions and small supplies such as thread, needles, buttons, ribbon, and trims.

The traditional dress of Korea, consisting of a short jacket (jeogori) and a high-waisted wrapped skirt (chima) for women, worn historically and today for formal and ceremonial occasions.

The wheel at the right end of a sewing machine that manually raises and lowers the needle and can be turned to advance a single stitch.

The finished edge of a garment, typically at the bottom, where the raw fabric edge is folded and stitched to prevent fraying.

The extra fabric length added beyond a garment's finished hemline, folded up and stitched during construction to create a clean, durable hem edge.

A pullover knit shirt with a short button placket at the neckline and no collar, originating from boating and rowing wear.

A circumference taken above the bust and under the arms, close to the ribcage, often used instead of the full bust measurement to choose a bodice pattern size.

The horizontal circumference around the fullest part of the hips and seat, usually seven to nine inches below the waist, used to size skirts and trousers.

A small metal fastener pair, a bent hook that catches on a loop or bar, used at waistbands, plackets and the top of zips for a flat, secure closure.

A two-sided fastening tape of a stiff hooked surface and a soft looped surface that grip when pressed together, used for adjustable or quick-release closures.

A pocket concealed within a garment's side seam, formed from pocket bag pieces stitched into the seam allowance so no opening shows on the outside.

A small, independently run sewing pattern company or individual designer, as distinct from one of the major legacy pattern brands.

A sewing pattern published by a small, independently owned designer or company, rather than by one of the larger legacy pattern brands.

A sewing pattern produced by a small, independent design company rather than a major commercial publisher, typically sold as a PDF or printed copy-shop format.

The measurement of a pant leg from the crotch seam down to the desired hem, taken along the inner leg seam.

A seam allowance too narrow to sew, or that frays away, results from cutting too close to the cutting line or forgetting to add allowance to a pattern with none included. Always confirm before cutting.

A supporting fabric layer applied to the wrong side of garment sections such as collars, cuffs and waistbands to add body, stability and shape retention.

Safety practices for handling a hot iron, including using a heatproof surface, an auto-shutoff feature, and keeping the cord and iron clear of reach when unattended.

Interfacing lifting away from fabric in little bubbles after fusing comes from too little heat, pressure, or time, or sliding the iron instead of pressing straight down. Re-fuse with steam and firm, held pressure.

A single-knit fabric made on a weft-knitting machine with plain stitch on one side and purl-like loops on the other, offering good stretch and recovery for T-shirts and dresses.

Trousers cut with a relaxed leg that tapers to an elasticated or ribbed cuff at the ankle, typically paired with an elasticated waistband.

A traditional Japanese T-shaped garment constructed from straight-cut bolts of fabric sewn with minimal waste, wrapped left over right and secured with an obi sash; its basic form has changed little for centuries.

A sleeve cut in one continuous piece with the bodice, without a separate armhole seam, producing a loose, straight silhouette derived from Japanese dress.

A series of uniform, single-direction folds pressed sharply to one side, used in skirts and trims for controlled fullness.

A seam formed by overlapping two folded or finished edges and stitching through both layers, leaving no bulk underneath; used on interfaced or leather pieces.

Detached chain hand embroidery stitch anchored with a small tacking stitch at the loop's end, commonly grouped in clusters to form petals or leaves.

Close-fitting, ankle-length trousers made from stretch knit fabric, cut without a fly or structured waistband and typically finished with an elasticated waist.

A basic pattern alteration performed at printed lengthen-or-shorten lines to change a garment's length in a chosen area without distorting its proportions or seam shapes.

The direction fabric threads run parallel to the selvedge, usually the strongest and least stretchy direction in a woven fabric.

A simple black-and-white technical sketch, shown on a pattern envelope or in the instructions, illustrating a garment's design without color or fabric texture.

A strong, absorbent bast fibre spun from the stems of the flax plant, known for crisp hand, natural lustre and a tendency to wrinkle; sews well but frays readily.

A separate inner layer of fabric that finishes the inside of a garment, hiding seams and construction while adding comfort and reducing friction against the body.

A smooth, often lightweight fabric sewn inside a garment to conceal construction, reduce friction against the body, and help the outer fabric hold its shape.

A small brush used to clear fabric lint and thread debris from the bobbin case, feed dogs, and tension mechanism during routine cleaning.

The most common machine stitch, formed by an upper needle thread interlocking with a lower bobbin thread inside the fabric; it appears identical on both sides and resists unraveling.

Visible loops sitting proud of the seam point to unbalanced tension, most often a bobbin thread with too little resistance. Rethread top and bobbin, adjust tension gradually, and test on scrap first.