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Techniques
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Backstitch
A strong hand stitch made by inserting the needle behind the previous stitch's end, producing a solid, continuous line similar to machine stitching.
beginner · Hand sewing
Barrel cuff
A single-layer shirt cuff fastened with one or two buttons, named for its cylindrical shape when closed around the wrist.
beginner · Sleeves & cuffs
Bias tape maker
Small tool that folds a strip of bias-cut fabric into even single- or double-fold tape as it is pressed, speeding up preparation of binding for edges and facings.
beginner · Edges & facings
Bias-bound neckline
A neckline finished by binding the raw edge with a bias strip instead of a separate facing, giving a narrow, clean edge.
beginner · Collars & necklines
Centered zipper
A zipper insertion with the teeth centered under an opening and two even rows of topstitching visible on either side, often used at center back.
beginner · Closures
Cross stitch
X-shaped hand embroidery stitch formed by two crossing diagonal stitches, traditionally worked on even-weave fabric using a grid to build geometric or pictorial motifs.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Dart
A tapered fold of fabric stitched to a point that removes excess fullness and shapes flat fabric to a body curve, such as at the bust or waist.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Decorative machine stitching
Built-in or programmed machine stitch patterns, such as scallops or embroidery motifs, used to embellish a garment's surface or edges.
beginner · Topstitching & decorative
Double-fold hem
A hem turned up twice by the same amount so no raw edge is exposed, then stitched near the inner fold.
beginner · Hems
Drawstring casing
A casing constructed with an opening for a drawstring or cord to pass through and be pulled to adjust fit at a waist, hood, or hem.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Drawstring closure
A closure made by threading a cord or tape through a casing so the opening can be cinched and tied.
beginner · Closures
Edge stitching
A row of straight stitching worked very close to a finished edge or seamline, used to keep facings flat and add a crisp, defined line.
beginner · Topstitching & decorative
Elastic casing
A fabric tunnel formed by folding and stitching fabric to hold elastic, allowing the waist or edge to stretch and fit without a separate closure.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Elasticated waistband
A waistband constructed with elastic sewn directly to the fabric or inserted into a casing, giving stretch and eliminating the need for a fastener.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Facing
A shaped piece of fabric sewn to an edge such as a neckline, armhole, or hem and turned to the inside to finish the raw edge cleanly.
beginner · Edges & facings
Feather stitch
Openwork hand embroidery stitch made of alternating angled loops branching from a central line, producing a feathery, vine-like border often used on smocked or heirloom garments.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fly stitch
Hand embroidery stitch resembling an open V anchored by a short tacking stitch, used singly or in rows to suggest foliage, texture, or decorative seam ornamentation.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
French knot
Small raised hand embroidery stitch made by wrapping thread around the needle before reinserting it close to the exit point, used for dots, flower centres, and texture.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fringe trim
Decorative trim made of hanging threads, cords, or strands attached along one edge, applied to hems, shawls, or cushions for added texture and movement.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fusible applique
Applique method in which motifs are bonded to a background fabric with fusible web before the raw edges are secured by straight, zigzag, or satin machine stitching.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fusible web
Heat-activated adhesive sheet or tape, without a fabric backing, that bonds two layers of fabric together under an iron, used for applique and no-sew hems.
beginner · Linings & interfacing
Gathering
Drawing fabric along one or more rows of stitching to reduce its width into soft, even fullness before attaching it to another piece.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Growth tuck
Stitched horizontal tuck added to a child's garment hem or sleeve to shorten it temporarily, released later to lengthen the garment as the child grows.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
In-seam pocket
A pocket concealed within a garment's side seam, formed from pocket bag pieces stitched into the seam allowance so no opening shows on the outside.
beginner · Pockets
Knife pleat
A series of uniform, single-direction folds pressed sharply to one side, used in skirts and trims for controlled fullness.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Lapped seam
A seam formed by overlapping two folded or finished edges and stitching through both layers, leaving no bulk underneath; used on interfaced or leather pieces.
beginner · Seams
Lazy daisy stitch
Detached chain hand embroidery stitch anchored with a small tacking stitch at the loop's end, commonly grouped in clusters to form petals or leaves.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Lining
A separate inner layer of fabric that finishes the inside of a garment, hiding seams and construction while adding comfort and reducing friction against the body.
beginner · Linings & interfacing
Machine-stitched buttonhole
A buttonhole formed by a dense zigzag stitch worked around a slit, either with a buttonhole foot or an automatic buttonhole function.
beginner · Closures
Machine-stitched hem
A hem finished by turning the raw edge up once or twice and securing it with a straight line of machine stitching visible on the right side.
beginner · Hems
Mandarin collar
A short, straight standing collar that encircles the neck without folding over, named for its resemblance to Chinese formal dress.
beginner · Collars & necklines
Narrow hem
A hem folded up a small, consistent width, often three to six millimeters, and stitched close to the fold; common on linings and lightweight fabrics.
beginner · Hems
Narrow zigzag seam
A seam stitched with a narrow, short zigzag stitch on a conventional machine to allow the stitching to stretch with knit fabric without popping.
beginner · Knits & stretch
Patch pocket
A pocket made from a separate piece of fabric stitched directly onto the outside of a garment, with its top edge left open.
beginner · Pockets
Peter Pan collar
A flat collar with rounded, close-fitting corners that lies against the garment without standing up at the neckline.
beginner · Collars & necklines
Pinked and stitched finish
A finish combining a line of straight stitching near the raw edge with pinking beyond it, adding fray resistance to lightly fraying fabrics.
beginner · Seam finishes
Pinked seam finish
A raw-edge finish made by trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears to create a zigzag edge that resists fraying without additional stitching.
beginner · Seam finishes
Plain seam
The most basic seam, formed by stitching two fabric layers together along a seam allowance with right sides facing, then pressed open or to one side.
beginner · Seams
Point turner
Blunt-tipped hand tool used to push out fully stitched corners, such as collar points or pocket flaps, without piercing the fabric or fraying the seam.
beginner · Edges & facings
Press cloth
A protective layer of cloth placed between the iron and the garment fabric to prevent shine, scorching, or direct heat marks during pressing.
beginner · Pressing