Terms & glossary

Reversing the machine over the first and last few stitches of a seam to lock the thread ends so the seam will not unravel.

Long, loose, temporary stitches, sewn by hand or machine, used to hold layers of fabric in place for fitting before permanent stitching.

Snipping short cuts into a curved seam allowance, especially an inward curve, so the seam can spread and lie flat once turned or pressed.

Cutting small wedge-shaped notches out of a curved seam allowance, especially an outward curve, to remove excess bulk so the seam lies flat.

Stopping with the sewing machine needle down at a corner, lifting the presser foot, and turning the fabric to continue stitching in a new direction.

A section of fabric folded back on itself and pressed or stitched in place, adding controlled fullness or decorative shaping to a garment.

The strip of fabric lying between the stitching line and the raw cut edge, commonly five eighths of an inch or one and a half centimeters.

Any treatment applied to a raw seam allowance edge, such as overlocking, pinking, or zigzagging, to keep the fabric from fraying over time.

A line of regular straight stitching sewn just inside the seamline through a single layer, to keep curved or bias edges from stretching out of shape while handling.

Stitching worked close to a seam that secures a facing or lining to its seam allowance so it rolls neatly to the inside and stays hidden.