All articles

A movement advocating fewer, higher-quality, and more thoughtfully made garments over disposable trend-driven clothing, emphasizing durability, ethical labor, and reduced environmental impact; the term was coined around 2007.

A pattern alteration that removes width and length from the bust area of a bodice, typically by overlapping the pattern, to fit a bust smaller than the block assumes.

A supportive undergarment designed to minimize breast movement during physical activity, constructed from stretch fabric with reinforced encapsulation or compression panels.

A pattern alteration that raises and extends the shoulder line of a bodice pattern outward to fit shoulders flatter than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape flatter and less sloped than the standard pattern block assumes, causing wrinkles to radiate from the neck and excess fabric to pool near the shoulder tip.

A temporary or permanent backing placed under fabric during machine embroidery or stitching to prevent puckering, stretching or distortion from the needle and thread tension.

A fabric's resistance to distortion or stretching out of shape during handling, cutting and sewing, often improved with interfacing or stay tape on loosely woven or stretch fabrics.

A backing material, in tear-away, cut-away, or wash-away form, placed under fabric to support it against the pull and density of embroidery stitching.

A generalized set of body measurements assigned to numbered sizes by a particular pattern company, which can vary noticeably from one brand to another.

A narrow tape of twill, selvage, or fusible material stitched or fused along a seam or edge, such as a shoulder seam or neckline, to prevent stretching.

Applying moist heat to fabric to relax fibres, remove wrinkles, shrink fibres slightly, or set pleats and pressed seams without direct iron contact.

A sewing machine needle with a specially shaped eye and scarf designed to prevent skipped stitches in highly elastic fabrics such as spandex blends.

A measure of how far a knit or stretch-woven fabric extends compared to its resting length, used to check a fabric against a pattern's required stretch and recovery.

A seam or design line on a pattern that also performs a shaping function, such as a princess seam that both fits and decorates.

A posture characterized by an exaggerated inward curve of the lower spine, causing horizontal folds of excess fabric to form across the back of a garment at the waist.

A pattern alteration that removes excess length and width from the center back of a bodice or dress pattern to eliminate horizontal folds caused by a swayed back posture.

A general term for knit fabrics that mimic hand- or machine-knitted sweater texture, ranging from fine gauge to chunky, often loosely constructed and prone to runs.

A neckline shaped like the top curves of a heart, dipping to a center point between two rounded curves over the bust.

A crisp, smooth plain-weave fabric with a fine ribbed texture and characteristic rustle, used in eveningwear and linings; frays and shows needle holes easily.

A firmly stuffed, curved pressing cushion used to press darts, curved seams, and shaped areas like bust and hip curves without flattening the curve.

A trade association of professional tailors that historically regulated training, quality standards, and apprenticeship, common in European cities from the medieval period through the 19th century.

An oscillating arm on the machine head that pulls thread from the spool, feeds slack to the needle, and draws thread up after each stitch is formed.

Reducing a garment that's too loose is done by pinning out excess at the side seams or darts while worn, then restitching those seams narrower and trimming the extra allowance away.

A set of proportional alterations, usually lengthening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a taller-than-average body.

A presser foot with a non-stick coated sole that glides smoothly over vinyl, leather, and other sticky materials without dragging or marking them.

A branded regenerated cellulose fibre (lyocell) made from sustainably sourced wood pulp using a closed-loop process, noted for softness, drape and moisture management.

A pair of metal discs that the upper thread passes between, applying adjustable pressure to balance thread tightness against the bobbin thread for even stitches.

The practice of transforming used fabric, garments, or offcuts into new items of equal or greater value rather than discarding or downcycling them, a core strategy of sustainable fashion.

Thread fraying into fuzz or snapping into short pieces usually means it's catching on a burred needle eye or thread guide, or is old and brittle. Replace the needle, check guides for nicks, use fresh thread.

An armhole cut too small or positioned too high for the wearer, restricting arm movement and often pulling the underarm seam of the bodice or sleeve.

British sewing pattern designer and author who founded the independent pattern company Tilly and the Buttons in 2011, known for beginner-friendly patterns and a popular sewing blog and YouTube channel.

A machine needle with an extra-large eye and a deep groove designed to accommodate thick topstitching or decorative thread without excess friction.

A heavier-weight decorative thread used for visible topstitching, such as on jeans, giving a bolder line than standard construction thread.

The measurement taken from the base of the neck down through the crotch, used especially to fit bodysuits, leotards, and swimwear correctly.

A foot-powered sewing machine driven by a pedal connected to a flywheel via a belt, requiring no electricity, common before electric machines became standard.

A finish in which a strip of stretch tricot bias tape is wrapped and stitched over the raw seam edge, common in ready-to-wear tailoring.

A basic sloper shaped to the lower body from waist to ankle, incorporating the crotch curve, used as the foundation for drafting trouser and pants designs.

The process of separating a back-waist design line from a trouser block to create a yoke pattern piece, often absorbing the waist dart into its seam.

The exact forty-five degree diagonal line between the lengthwise and crosswise grain, the direction where a woven fabric stretches the most.

A small stitched fold of fabric, similar to a pleat but generally narrower, used mainly for decorative effect or subtle shaping.