Fit & patternmaking

The technique of combining pattern pieces or size lines from two or more patterns, or two adjacent sizes, into a single custom pattern piece.

The practice of modifying an existing commercial or drafted sewing pattern to create a different design, such as changing a neckline, sleeve, or silhouette, without drafting from scratch.

A sloper drafted or fitted specifically to one individual's body measurements rather than a standard size, used to produce well-fitting patterns for that person alone.

A set of proportional alterations, usually shortening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a shorter-than-average body.

A dart manipulation technique that moves a dart to a new position by pivoting the pattern piece around the dart apex without cutting the paper apart.

A true vertical reference line, established with a weighted string or level, used during fitting to check whether a garment's center front, center back, or side seam hangs straight.

Excess fabric that collects and folds in a concentrated area of a garment, such as below the seat or at the small of the back, rather than lying smooth.

Garment modification, such as side-seam openings or drain access points, designed to be worn comfortably over dressings or medical equipment during recovery.

The distance from the waistband to the crotch seam of a garment or body, measured front and back, determining how high or low trousers sit on the body.

A pattern alteration that adds length and width across the upper back of a bodice pattern to accommodate increased curvature of the upper spine.

A posture with increased forward curvature of the upper spine, causing the back of a garment to pull tight and ride up, with drag lines below the neckline.

A dart originating at the shoulder seam and pointing toward the bust apex, used in bodice drafting as an alternative location to shape fabric over the bust.

The angle of the shoulder measured from a horizontal reference line, used to identify square or sloping shoulders and to adjust the shoulder seam of a pattern.

A basic sloper covering the body from waist to hip level, fitted with darts to the waist, used as the foundation for drafting skirt designs.

The process of constructing a skirt pattern from waist and hip measurements, typically starting from a basic skirt block and shaping it into a chosen silhouette.

A basic sloper for a set-in sleeve, drafted to match the armhole of a corresponding bodice block, used as the foundation for drafting sleeve designs.

A modification made to an existing sleeve pattern, such as adding a flounce, changing the length, or converting a set-in sleeve into a different sleeve style.

A pattern alteration that lowers the shoulder point of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders more angled downward than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape more angled downward than the standard pattern block assumes, causing diagonal drag lines from the neckline to the shoulder point and a gaping armhole.

A pattern alteration that removes width and length from the bust area of a bodice, typically by overlapping the pattern, to fit a bust smaller than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that raises and extends the shoulder line of a bodice pattern outward to fit shoulders flatter than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape flatter and less sloped than the standard pattern block assumes, causing wrinkles to radiate from the neck and excess fabric to pool near the shoulder tip.

A posture characterized by an exaggerated inward curve of the lower spine, causing horizontal folds of excess fabric to form across the back of a garment at the waist.

A pattern alteration that removes excess length and width from the center back of a bodice or dress pattern to eliminate horizontal folds caused by a swayed back posture.

A set of proportional alterations, usually lengthening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a taller-than-average body.

An armhole cut too small or positioned too high for the wearer, restricting arm movement and often pulling the underarm seam of the bodice or sleeve.

A basic sloper shaped to the lower body from waist to ankle, incorporating the crotch curve, used as the foundation for drafting trouser and pants designs.

The process of separating a back-waist design line from a trouser block to create a yoke pattern piece, often absorbing the waist dart into its seam.

A bust dart originating from the side seam near the underarm and pointing toward the bust apex, one of the most common dart placements in bodice drafting.

Garment modifications, such as higher back rises, seam relocation, and adjusted hem lengths, that improve fit and comfort for a seated wheelchair user.

A back width broader than the standard pattern block assumes, causing the back pattern piece to feel tight across the shoulder blades and restrict arm movement.

The process of separating a design line, such as a shoulder or back panel, from a bodice block to create a yoke pattern piece, often absorbing dart shaping into its seam.