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The reciprocating vertical bar that holds the needle clamp and drives the needle up and down through the fabric with each stitch cycle.

The numbering conventions, chiefly the European metric size and American size, used to indicate a sewing machine needle's shaft diameter and suitability for fabric weight.

Hand applique method in which the seam allowance of a motif is turned under and stitched invisibly to the background fabric as the seam is sewn, favoured for smooth curves.

A finished garment measurement smaller than the body measurement it covers, relying on stretch fabric to fit snugly, as commonly used for knitwear and activewear.

A multi-size pattern printed with the cutting lines for every included size layered on top of one another on a single pattern piece.

The way multiple sizes of a pattern piece are layered and printed as concentric cutting lines on a single sheet, one inside the other.

Christian Dior's debut collection, presented in February 1947, featuring nipped waists, padded hips, and full calf-length skirts that used yards of fabric, a dramatic break from wartime austerity.

Discreet opening, overlap, or panel built into a garment's bodice to allow breastfeeding access without fully undressing, such as a wrap front or hidden zip.

A strong, elastic synthetic polyamide fibre with high abrasion resistance, used in activewear, linings and hosiery; melts rather than burns under heat.

A tightly woven cotton fabric coated with a waxed or vinyl finish to make it waterproof and wipeable, commonly used for bags, aprons and outdoor items.

Garment modification, such as replacing back closures with front ones or substituting easier fasteners, that allows a wearer to dress independently using only one hand.

A single-piece swimming garment covering the torso, constructed from stretch fabric with reinforced linings at the bust and crotch.

A crisp, sheer plain-weave fabric traditionally of silk, now often polyester, used for structure, overlays and interfacing in eveningwear.

Fabric woven with pronounced horizontal ribs, heavier and stiffer than a plain rib knit, used for structured garments, coats, and accessories.

The measurement of a pant leg from the waistband down to the hem, taken along the outer leg seam rather than the inner one.

A presser foot with a guide pin or brush that stitches over a raw fabric edge to prevent fraying, mimicking a serger's edge finish on a standard machine.

The upper and lower knives on a serger that trim the fabric edge just ahead of the needles as the seam is stitched.

Trousers with extremely wide, flowing legs cut from the hip downward, often made from lightweight fabric to enhance movement and drape.

A long, insulated, hooded coat, historically lined or trimmed with fur, designed for protection in cold and wet weather.

The technique of combining pattern pieces or size lines from two or more patterns, or two adjacent sizes, into a single custom pattern piece.

The practice of modifying an existing commercial or drafted sewing pattern to create a different design, such as changing a neckline, sleeve, or silhouette, without drafting from scratch.

The process by which sewists outside a designer's own team sew a new pattern before its release, checking fit, instructions, and grading across sizes.

A short, double-breasted wool coat with broad lapels and large buttons, originally worn by naval sailors for warmth and durability.

A narrow, straight skirt cut close to the body from waist to hem, usually including a back vent or kick pleat to allow walking ease.

A fitted top featuring a short flared or gathered flounce attached at the waistline that extends over the hip.

A sloper drafted or fitted specifically to one individual's body measurements rather than a standard size, used to produce well-fitting patterns for that person alone.

A set of proportional alterations, usually shortening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a shorter-than-average body.

The raised loops or cut fiber ends standing up from a fabric's woven base, as seen in velvet, corduroy, and terry cloth.

A dress form with a foam or similarly soft surface that accepts pins directly, allowing fabric to be draped and pinned in place on the body.

A very narrow, stitched fold of fabric, typically a few millimeters wide, sewn in parallel rows as a decorative textural detail on blouses and fine garments.

A folded bias strip encasing a cord, inserted into a seam so a raised, corded edge shows along the seamline as a decorative or defining detail.

A folded strip of bias fabric enclosing a cord, inserted into a seam to create a raised decorative or defining edge along garment seams.

A dart manipulation technique that moves a dart to a new position by pivoting the pattern piece around the dart apex without cutting the paper apart.

A skirt constructed with folded, pressed, or stitched-down folds of fabric arranged around the waist to control fullness while allowing movement.

A true vertical reference line, established with a weighted string or level, used during fitting to check whether a garment's center front, center back, or side seam hangs straight.

A narrow wooden tool with pointed ends used to press open the seam allowances inside sharp corners such as collar points and cuffs.

A medium-weight double-knit fabric, usually of polyester, viscose and spandex, with a firm hand and good stability, popular for structured knit garments.

Excess fabric that collects and folds in a concentrated area of a garment, such as below the seat or at the small of the back, rather than lying smooth.

Garment modification, such as side-seam openings or drain access points, designed to be worn comfortably over dressings or medical equipment during recovery.

Short for PatternReview.com, a long-running online community where sewists post detailed reviews of commercial and indie sewing patterns before others buy them.