Terms & glossary

A hand stitch worked in a loose zigzag pattern, catching only a thread or two of the outer fabric, commonly used to secure a hem invisibly.

A line of long machine stitches sewn within a seam allowance and gently pulled up to shrink an edge slightly without forming visible gathers.

Distributing a small amount of extra fullness in one fabric edge smoothly over a slightly shorter matching edge, without leaving visible gathers or puckers.

A row of topstitching sewn very close, often about an eighth of an inch, to a finished edge or seam to keep it flat and crisp.

Trimming layered seam allowances to different, staggered widths so the layers taper gradually and do not create a visible ridge under the fabric.

An extra layer of fabric sewn in between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, usually added for warmth or extra structure.

A small stitched fold of fabric, similar to a pleat but generally narrower, used mainly for decorative effect or subtle shaping.