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Four-thread overlock stitch
An overlock stitch using two needle threads and two looper threads to form a durable seam that both sews and finishes an edge in one pass.
advanced · Overlockers & coverstitch
Four-way stretch
Fabric that stretches and recovers its shape in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, common in swimwear, activewear, and dancewear.
intermediate · Fabric & grain terms
Frankenpattern
A hybrid pattern created by combining pieces or design elements from two or more different existing patterns into one new design.
intermediate · Community slang & abbreviations
Fray
The gradual unraveling of a cut fabric edge as individual threads work themselves loose from the weave over time or handling.
beginner · Fabric & grain terms
Fraying edges before construction
Cut edges unraveling before a seam is even sewn is common on loosely woven fabrics like linen. Finish edges early with pinking shears, a zigzag stitch, or fray-check liquid.
beginner · Fabric handling problems
Free-motion embroidery
Decorative stitching created by manually guiding fabric under a lowered or disengaged feed dog, allowing the stitcher to draw with thread in any direction.
advanced · Embroidery & software
Free-motion quilting foot
A spring-loaded presser foot that hovers just above the fabric, letting the quilter move the fabric freely in any direction with the feed dogs lowered.
intermediate · Presser feet
Freearm sewing machine
A machine whose bed narrows into a slim, removable arm, allowing tubular items such as sleeves, cuffs, and trouser legs to be sewn without flattening the fabric.
beginner · Sewing machine types
French cuff
A doubled-back shirt cuff, folded over and fastened with cufflinks rather than a button, giving a dressier finish.
advanced · Sleeves & cuffs
French curve
A curved plastic drafting template used to draw smooth, precise curved lines when drafting or adjusting armholes, necklines, and other patternmaking curves.
intermediate · Marking & measuring
French dart
A long, diagonal dart running from the side seam near the hip up toward the bust point, shaping the garment with a single seam line.
intermediate · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
French knot
Small raised hand embroidery stitch made by wrapping thread around the needle before reinserting it close to the exit point, used for dots, flower centres, and texture.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
French seam
A self-enclosed seam made by stitching a narrow seam wrong sides together, trimming it, then encasing the raw edge inside a second seam sewn right sides together; used on sheer or unlined fabrics.
intermediate · Seams
French tack
A short thread chain, several strands long, connecting a lining to a garment at the hem, allowing movement without the layers separating.
advanced · Couture
French terry
A soft knit fabric with looped, uncut loops on the reverse side and a smooth face, lighter than fleece and common in casual sweatshirts.
beginner · Knit fabrics
Fringe trim
Decorative trim made of hanging threads, cords, or strands attached along one edge, applied to hems, shawls, or cushions for added texture and movement.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Frog closure
A decorative fastening of intricately knotted cord or braid, with a button-like knot and a loop, traditionally used on Chinese-style and Asian-inspired garments.
advanced · Fastenings & hardware
Frog it
To rip out a section of stitching, or abandon a project entirely, from the rhyme 'rip it, rip it' echoing a frog's croak.
beginner · Community slang & abbreviations
Front bodice draft
The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the front torso pattern, incorporating the bust dart, waist dart, neckline, and armhole curve calculated from front body measurements.
intermediate · Drafting bodices
Full abdomen
A stomach shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal drag lines below the waist and a front hemline that rises above the back.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Full abdomen adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the front of a skirt or trouser pattern below the waist to accommodate a stomach fuller than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Full bust
A measurement taken horizontally around the body at the fullest, most projecting point of the bust, one of the core measurements used to choose pattern size.
beginner · Measurement terms
Full bust adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the bust area of a bodice, typically by slashing and spreading the pattern, to fit a bust larger than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Full canvas construction
A suit-jacket construction in which a floating canvas interlining is sewn, not glued, throughout the front, allowing the jacket to mold to the wearer's body over time.
advanced · Tailoring traditions
Full seat
A seat shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal wrinkles below the waistband and drag lines pulling across the back of trousers or a skirt.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Full seat adjustment
A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to accommodate a seat fuller than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Funnel neck
A tall, wide standing neckline finish that flares slightly away from the neck, often used on outerwear for warmth and style.
intermediate · Collars & necklines
Fusible applique
Applique method in which motifs are bonded to a background fabric with fusible web before the raw edges are secured by straight, zigzag, or satin machine stitching.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Fusible interfacing
Interfacing coated with a heat-activated adhesive resin that bonds to fabric when pressed, offering a quick, even application without hand stitching.
beginner · Interfacing & stabilisers
Fusible web
Heat-activated adhesive sheet or tape, without a fabric backing, that bonds two layers of fabric together under an iron, used for applique and no-sew hems.
beginner · Linings & interfacing
Gaping armhole
A fitting problem in which the armhole edge stands away from the body instead of following the arm and torso closely, often exposing underwear or skin.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Gaping armholes
An armhole standing away from the body in a visible gap, common on sleeveless garments, comes from an opening cut too large or left unstabilized. Stay-stitch the edge and take a small dart at the gap.
intermediate · Fit & construction problems
Gaping neckline
A fitting problem in which a neckline stands away from the body in loose folds rather than lying flat, usually caused by excess fabric or an overly wide curve.
beginner · Fitting problems
Gaping waistband
A waistband standing away from the body at the back or sides, despite fitting at the hip, usually means the waist is smaller than the band was cut for. Take in the waistband seam or add a dart.
intermediate · Fit & construction problems
Gathered skirt
A skirt formed by gathering a rectangular or panelled length of fabric into a waistband, producing soft, even fullness below the waist.
beginner · Skirts
Gathering
Drawing fabric along one or more rows of stitching to reduce its width into soft, even fullness before attaching it to another piece.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Gathering foot
A presser foot that gathers a single layer of fabric as it feeds, or gathers one layer while attaching it to a flat layer beneath, in one pass.
intermediate · Presser feet
Georgette
A sheer, lightweight crepe-weave fabric with a dull, crinkled surface from tightly twisted alternating S and Z yarns, similar to chiffon but with more texture.
advanced · Woven fabrics
Gingham
A lightweight plain-weave cotton fabric woven from dyed and white yarns to form even checks, popular for shirts and summer dresses.
beginner · Woven fabrics
Godet
A triangular piece of fabric inserted into a seam or hem to add extra flare and fullness to a skirt, dress, or sleeve.
intermediate · French & international terms