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A regenerated cellulose fibre processed from bamboo pulp, marketed for softness and breathability though chemically similar to viscose rayon.

A short, dense zigzag or hand-worked reinforcement stitched at points of stress, such as pocket corners or fly ends, to prevent seams from tearing open.

An industrial machine that sews a small, dense block of zigzag stitches to reinforce stress points such as pocket corners and belt loops.

A single-layer shirt cuff fastened with one or two buttons, named for its cylindrical shape when closed around the wrist.

French tailor who patented an early chainstitch sewing machine in 1830 to make army uniforms; rioting tailors, fearing job losses, destroyed his workshop in 1831.

A close-fitting garment worn next to the skin beneath other clothing, designed to wick moisture and regulate body temperature during activity.

A general term for any foundational, unfitted-detail pattern piece—such as a bodice, skirt, sleeve, or trouser block—from which other pattern designs are developed.

Long, loose, temporary stitches, sewn by hand or machine, used to hold layers of fabric in place for fitting before permanent stitching.

A long, loose straight stitch used to temporarily hold fabric layers together for fitting or easing before permanent stitching is sewn.

A wax-resist dyeing technique in which molten wax is applied to fabric to block dye from certain areas, producing intricate patterns; long practiced in Indonesia, especially Java, and recognized by UNESCO in 2009.

Fine, lightweight, closely woven fabric, softer and slightly more opaque than voile, traditionally cotton or linen, used for blouses, baby clothes, and heirloom sewing.

Layer of loose fibre wadding, made from cotton, wool, polyester, or blends, used as the insulating middle layer of a quilt sandwich or a padded garment.

Surface embellishment technique in which beads are stitched individually or in strings onto fabric with a beading needle and thread to create texture, pattern, or sparkle.

A sleeve fitted at the shoulder that flares progressively wider toward the wrist, producing a bell-shaped silhouette at the hem.

A trademarked lightweight cupro rayon lining fabric prized for a silk-like hand, breathability and antistatic properties compared with polyester linings.

A needle that clicks against the plate or skips stitches is often bent from nicking a pin or age. Replace it immediately, since a bent needle can also throw off hook timing.

Tailored shorts with a hem ending just above the knee, cut with a fitted waist and straight or slightly tapered leg.

An inset pocket finished with two narrow folded strips forming lips on either side of a slit opening, commonly used on tailored jackets and trousers.

Originally a term for custom tailoring made entirely to one individual customer's specifications, now used more loosely for any made-to-order garment.

A method of making a garment, typically a suit, individually from a unique pattern drafted to one client's measurements, involving multiple fittings and largely hand-sewn construction.

An early, not-yet-finalized version of a sewing pattern sent out to testers for feedback before the pattern's official public release.

Any diagonal direction across a woven fabric that is not parallel or perpendicular to the grain, where the fabric has more give and stretch.

The diagonal direction across a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the grainlines, along which fabric has maximum stretch and drape; used for bindings and fluid-cut garments.

A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded to encase a raw edge, allowing it to curve smoothly around necklines, armholes and hems.

A cutting technique in which pattern pieces are placed at a 45-degree angle to the fabric's grainline, producing extra drape, stretch, and a fluid hang.

Edges or seams that stretch and lose their shape happen when fabric cut near the bias grain is handled without support. Stay-stitch bias edges promptly after cutting and avoid pulling the fabric while sewing.

A narrow strip of bias-cut fabric sewn to an edge and turned to the inside, used to finish curved edges with minimal bulk.

Small tool that folds a strip of bias-cut fabric into even single- or double-fold tape as it is pressed, speeding up preparation of binding for edges and facings.

A neckline finished by binding the raw edge with a bias strip instead of a separate facing, giving a narrow, clean edge.

A pattern alteration that adds or removes width in the upper sleeve to match an arm circumference that differs from the block's assumed bicep measurement.

The measurement taken around the fullest part of the upper arm, used to check and adjust the fit of a sleeve pattern.

The circumference of the upper arm at its fullest point, used to ensure adequate width across the sleeve cap and upper sleeve of a garment.

A nickname for the four long-established American pattern companies: Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, and Vogue Patterns.

A collective term for the four major North American commercial pattern publishers—Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, and Vogue—known for tissue-paper multi-size patterns sold in retail envelopes.

A two-piece swimsuit consisting of a separate top and bottom that expose the midriff, typically constructed from stretch swim fabric.

A long sleeve that is full through the forearm and gathered into a fitted cuff at the wrist, historically associated with clerical and Victorian dress.

A looped edge stitch that wraps around a raw or folded edge, used to finish edges or attach appliqué.

A tailored jacket, single- or double-breasted, structured with shoulder padding and often lapels, worn as smart separates rather than part of a matched suit.

A hem stitched so the stitching is nearly invisible from the right side, worked by hand with a blind hemming stitch or by machine with a blind hem foot.

A presser foot with a guide bar that runs along a folded hem edge, positioning the needle to catch only a thread or two for an invisible hem.