Terms & glossary

Fabric that stretches and recovers its shape in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, common in swimwear, activewear, and dancewear.

A hybrid pattern created by combining pieces or design elements from two or more different existing patterns into one new design.

The gradual unraveling of a cut fabric edge as individual threads work themselves loose from the weave over time or handling.

To rip out a section of stitching, or abandon a project entirely, from the rhyme 'rip it, rip it' echoing a frog's croak.

A measurement taken horizontally around the body at the fullest, most projecting point of the bust, one of the core measurements used to choose pattern size.

A triangular piece of fabric inserted into a seam or hem to add extra flare and fullness to a skirt, dress, or sleeve.

In industry usage, the process of mathematically scaling a base pattern up and down to create a full, consistent range of sizes for production.

Trimming layered seam allowances to different, staggered widths so the layers taper gradually and do not create a visible ridge under the fabric.

The lengthwise direction of woven fabric threads, running parallel to the selvedge, that pattern pieces must be aligned to so a garment hangs and fits correctly.

The double-headed arrow printed on a pattern piece that shows how the piece should be aligned with the fabric's lengthwise grain when laid out.

A heavy, openwork lace in which the decorative motifs are held together by connecting threads rather than by a net background fabric.

Historically, a dealer in small sewing goods and trimmings in Britain, or a dealer in men's clothing and furnishings in the United States.

A shop, or its stock of goods, selling sewing notions and small supplies such as thread, needles, buttons, ribbon, and trims.

The way a fabric feels to the touch, described as soft, crisp, slippery, or rough, an important factor when choosing fabric for a pattern.

French for 'high sewing,' a legally protected term for custom-fitted, largely hand-finished garments produced by an officially accredited Parisian fashion house.

A measurement taken around the ribcage just above the fullest part of the bust, often used instead of full bust to choose a bodice pattern size.

A small, independently run sewing pattern company or individual designer, as distinct from one of the major legacy pattern brands.

A sewing pattern published by a small, independently owned designer or company, rather than by one of the larger legacy pattern brands.

The measurement of a pant leg from the crotch seam down to the desired hem, taken along the inner leg seam.

An extra layer of fabric sewn in between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, usually added for warmth or extra structure.

A diagram showing exactly how pattern pieces are positioned on a given fabric width to minimize waste, used especially in production cutting.

The length of time between placing an order with a manufacturer and actually receiving the finished, produced goods.

The direction fabric threads run parallel to the selvedge, usually the strongest and least stretchy direction in a woven fabric.

A simple black-and-white technical sketch, shown on a pattern envelope or in the instructions, illustrating a garment's design without color or fabric texture.

A document summarizing a season's products with images, prices, and ordering details, sent by a fashion brand out to its retail buyers.

The historical occupational term, common through the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, for a dressmaker who specialized in making women's gowns.

Clothing that was sewn by the wearer themselves, as distinct from clothing that was bought ready-made or store-bought.

A rough, quickly sewn test version of a garment or design, made to check fit or check a construction method before committing to the final fabric.

Short for 'minimum order quantity,' the smallest amount of fabric or finished product that a manufacturer or supplier is willing to sell in one order.

A French draping technique of shaping fabric directly on a body or dress form to create a closely fitted base pattern from scratch.

A pattern printed with several nested cutting lines for different sizes on the same sheet, letting a sewist choose or blend sizes as needed.

A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet or corduroy, that catches light differently depending on which way the fabric faces.

The way multiple sizes of a pattern piece are layered and printed as concentric cutting lines on a single sheet, one inside the other.

A small triangular or single mark cut or printed along a pattern piece's edge, used to line pattern pieces up correctly with each other during sewing.

Cutting small wedge-shaped notches out of a curved seam allowance, especially an outward curve, to remove excess bulk so the seam lies flat.

The small supporting supplies needed to complete a garment beyond the fabric itself, such as thread, buttons, zippers, hooks, and elastic.

The measurement of a pant leg from the waistband down to the hem, taken along the outer leg seam rather than the inner one.

The French term for elaborate trimmings such as decorative braid, tassels, and cord, used to embellish garments as well as upholstery and home decor.

A modification made to an existing commercial or indie sewing pattern to change its style, features, or fit without drafting an entirely new pattern.

One individual printed or drafted shape from a sewing pattern, representing a single part of the finished garment to be cut from fabric.