Mistakes & fixes

Lumpy, hard-to-press seams at corners or curves come from leaving full seam allowance width in places that need to fold or turn. Trim, grade, and clip curves to reduce bulk before pressing.

A facing edge that rolls to the outside instead of staying tucked inside usually means it lacks understitching or the interfacing is too light. Understitch close to the seam and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

A knit hem that curls up on itself after stitching, refusing to lie flat, is caused by the fabric's stretch and the raw edge's tendency to roll. Stabilize with a twin needle and stay tape, or a coverstitch.

A knit edge that ripples into an unwanted wavy, frilled finish happens when fabric was stretched while being serged or hemmed. Ease the fabric through the machine without pulling and use a less dense stitch.

Topstitching that gathers fabric into small folds instead of lying flat comes from tension too tight, a stitch too dense, or sewing bulky layers without a walking foot. Loosen tension and use a walking foot.

Seam allowances unraveling into loose threads after the first wash mean the edges weren't finished before construction. Serge, zigzag, pink, or bind raw edges before or after sewing the seam.

Understitching that wanders away from the seamline, leaving the facing visible from outside, comes from sewing too fast or not keeping seam allowances pressed toward the facing. Slow down and hold allowances flat as you stitch.

Topstitching that wanders off an even line instead of running parallel to the edge usually comes from sewing too fast without a guide. Use the presser foot edge as a guide and slow down on curves.