Terms & glossary

Any diagonal direction across a woven fabric that is not parallel or perpendicular to the grain, where the fabric has more give and stretch.

A large roll of fabric as sold in a shop, wound around a flat cardboard or plastic core and holding many yards of material.

The direction fabric threads run from one selvedge to the other, perpendicular to the lengthwise grain and usually with a bit more give.

Surplus fabric left over from fashion industry production runs and resold in limited quantities rather than being sent to landfill.

The way a fabric falls and moves under its own weight, ranging from stiff and structured to soft, fluid, and clingy.

A quarter-yard cut of fabric shaped as a roughly square piece rather than a long narrow strip, popular for quilting and small projects.

Fabric that stretches and recovers its shape in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, common in swimwear, activewear, and dancewear.

The gradual unraveling of a cut fabric edge as individual threads work themselves loose from the weave over time or handling.

The lengthwise direction of woven fabric threads, running parallel to the selvedge, that pattern pieces must be aligned to so a garment hangs and fits correctly.

The way a fabric feels to the touch, described as soft, crisp, slippery, or rough, an important factor when choosing fabric for a pattern.

The direction fabric threads run parallel to the selvedge, usually the strongest and least stretchy direction in a woven fabric.

A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet or corduroy, that catches light differently depending on which way the fabric faces.

The raised loops or cut fiber ends standing up from a fabric's woven base, as seen in velvet, corduroy, and terry cloth.

A leftover end-of-bolt piece of fabric, usually smaller and sold at a discount compared to fabric cut fresh from a full bolt.

The finished, face side of a piece of fabric that is meant to show on the outside of a finished garment.

Positioning two layers of fabric so their finished, face sides touch each other, leaving the wrong sides visible, before stitching a seam.

The tightly woven, self-finished edge that runs along both lengthwise sides of a fabric bolt and will not fray or unravel like a cut edge.

Another name for the lengthwise grain, marked with an arrow on pattern pieces to show how they should align on the fabric.

The exact forty-five degree diagonal line between the lengthwise and crosswise grain, the direction where a woven fabric stretches the most.

The lengthwise threads held taut on a loom during weaving, running parallel to the selvedge in a piece of woven fabric.

The crosswise threads woven over and under the warp threads to construct a woven fabric, also known as the fill or the woof.

The reverse, less finished side of a piece of fabric that is meant to face inward and stay hidden from view.

Positioning two layers of fabric so their unfinished, wrong sides touch each other, leaving the right sides visible, as used for some enclosed seams.

The total amount of fabric, measured in yards or meters, that a project requires or that a particular piece of fabric contains.