Collar that won't lie flat
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A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.
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Buttonhole fraying
Threads pulling loose around a cut buttonhole usually means the stitching was too loose, the fabric wasn't stabilized, or it was cut open before sewing finished. Interface the area and cut open last with sharp scissors.
Buttonhole too tight
A buttonhole that won't let the button through without straining the fabric usually means it was sized to the button's diameter instead of its circumference. Measure the button's girth and test on scrap before cutting.
Crotch pulling
Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.
Gaping armholes
An armhole standing away from the body in a visible gap, common on sleeveless garments, comes from an opening cut too large or left unstabilized. Stay-stitch the edge and take a small dart at the gap.
Mismatched side seams
Side seams that don't align at the waist, hem, or underarm when laid flat usually come from uneven seam allowances or one piece eased more than the other. Pin at key match points and check the allowance.
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