Roll line
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The line along a jacket lapel where the fabric naturally folds back; tailors shape it through pad stitching and pressing so the lapel rolls softly rather than lying flat.
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See also
English drape cut
A tailoring style developed on Savile Row in the 1920s-30s that adds fullness across the chest and back for ease of movement while maintaining a structured silhouette.
Bespoke tailoring
A method of making a garment, typically a suit, individually from a unique pattern drafted to one client's measurements, involving multiple fittings and largely hand-sewn construction.
Canvas construction (tailoring)
A jacket-making method in which a layer of horsehair or wool canvas is hand- or machine-stitched inside the front panels to shape the chest, distinct from cheaper fused interfacing.
Full canvas construction
A suit-jacket construction in which a floating canvas interlining is sewn, not glued, throughout the front, allowing the jacket to mold to the wearer's body over time.
Master tailor apprenticeship
A traditional training path in which a novice works for years under an experienced tailor, progressing from basting and pressing to pattern drafting and full garment construction.
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