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Small tool that folds a strip of bias-cut fabric into even single- or double-fold tape as it is pressed, speeding up preparation of binding for edges and facings.

A neckline finished by binding the raw edge with a bias strip instead of a separate facing, giving a narrow, clean edge.

A pattern alteration that adds or removes width in the upper sleeve to match an arm circumference that differs from the block's assumed bicep measurement.

The measurement taken around the fullest part of the upper arm, used to check and adjust the fit of a sleeve pattern.

The circumference of the upper arm at its fullest point, used to ensure adequate width across the sleeve cap and upper sleeve of a garment.

A nickname for the four long-established American pattern companies: Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, and Vogue Patterns.

A collective term for the four major North American commercial pattern publishers—Simplicity, McCall's, Butterick, and Vogue—known for tissue-paper multi-size patterns sold in retail envelopes.

A two-piece swimsuit consisting of a separate top and bottom that expose the midriff, typically constructed from stretch swim fabric.

A long sleeve that is full through the forearm and gathered into a fitted cuff at the wrist, historically associated with clerical and Victorian dress.

A looped edge stitch that wraps around a raw or folded edge, used to finish edges or attach appliqué.

A tailored jacket, single- or double-breasted, structured with shoulder padding and often lapels, worn as smart separates rather than part of a matched suit.

A hem stitched so the stitching is nearly invisible from the right side, worked by hand with a blind hemming stitch or by machine with a blind hem foot.

A presser foot with a guide bar that runs along a folded hem edge, positioning the needle to catch only a thread or two for an invisible hem.

A stitch pattern combining several straight stitches with a single zigzag jog, used with a folded hem to catch fabric almost invisibly from the right side.

A basic pattern shape, drafted to fit a specific set of body measurements without seam allowances or design details, used as the foundation for other patterns; called a sloper in American usage.

Fusing interfacing to a large piece of fabric before the pattern pieces are cut from it, ensuring even stability and grain alignment across every piece.

Hand-printing technique in which a carved wooden or linoleum block is inked or dyed and pressed onto fabric to transfer a repeating design.

Dampening or steaming a piece, especially a knit, and pinning it to dry in a set shape and dimension to correct distortion before or after construction.

Loose trousers gathered at the ankle, worn under a shorter skirt and popularized by Amelia Bloomer in the 1850s as a practical, controversial alternative to restrictive Victorian dress.

A loose-fitting upper-body garment for women, traditionally softer and more decorative than a tailored shirt, often gathered or finished at the waist or hip.

A wide, shallow neckline that runs nearly horizontally from shoulder to shoulder, closely following the collarbone.

A small spool that holds the lower thread supply, fitting into the bobbin case beneath the needle plate to form the underside of a lockstitch.

A metal or plastic holder that houses the bobbin and regulates lower-thread tension via an adjustable spring before the thread reaches the needle plate.

Bobbin thread that pulls with no resistance, causing loopy stitches, usually means the small screw on the bobbin case has loosened. Turn it slightly clockwise and test on scrap before sewing the garment.

Fine-tuning the small screw on the bobbin case that controls how much resistance the lower thread meets, used to correct or balance stitch formation.

Dots of bobbin-colored thread on the fabric's right side mean top tension is too tight relative to the bobbin, pulling bobbin thread up through the fabric. Loosen the top tension and test on a scrap.

A spindle and motor mechanism on a sewing machine that winds thread evenly onto an empty bobbin, usually engaged by disengaging the main stitching mechanism.

A basic sloper covering the torso from shoulder to waist, fitted with darts to the bust and waist, used as the foundation for drafting bodices, tops, and dresses.

The process of constructing a fitted torso pattern from a set of body measurements using drafting formulas and a straightedge, producing front and back pieces shaped with darts.

A pattern hacking technique that extends a bodice pattern's hemline and adjusts its shaping to convert a top pattern into a full dress pattern.

The set of measurements taken directly from a person's body, such as bust, waist, and hip circumference, used to choose or draft a pattern size.

A knitted or woven wool fabric that has been felted through heat, moisture and agitation, producing a dense, non-fraying fabric that needs no seam finishing.

A one-piece garment combining a jacket and trousers into a single front-zippered or buttoned suit, designed to protect the wearer's clothing during manual work.

A large roll of fabric as sold in a shop, wound around a flat cardboard or plastic core and holding many yards of material.

A short jacket with a fitted, ribbed waistband and cuffs, a front zipper closure, and a rounded collar, originating from military flight wear.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, historically whalebone and now plastic or steel, inserted into channels within a bodice to maintain a fitted, structured shape.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, of steel, plastic or historically whalebone, inserted into channels to shape and support structured garments such as corsets and strapless bodices.

A Japanese tradition of patching and mending indigo cotton textiles with layered scraps, born of necessity among rural families from the Edo period into the 20th century and later admired as folk art.

A buttonhole finished with folded fabric strips, or lips, instead of thread, giving a tailored, couture-quality opening usually made before the garment is fully assembled.

A finish in which a folded binding strip encases the raw edge of a seam allowance, stitched through all layers; used when a seam will remain unlined and visible.