Mistakes & fixes

A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Skipped stitches on a coverstitch hem, especially at the seam start, usually come from an unstabilized layer or fabric not feeding evenly under both needles. Use a stabilizer strip and start on a fabric leader.

Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.