Mistakes & fixes

A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Fabric looking dull or washed-out after repeated laundering comes from dye breaking down under heat, sunlight, and detergent brighteners. Wash in cold water, turn garments inside out, and use a detergent made for colors.

Skipped stitches on a coverstitch hem, especially at the seam start, usually come from an unstabilized layer or fabric not feeding evenly under both needles. Use a stabilizer strip and start on a fabric leader.

Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.

A facing edge that rolls to the outside instead of staying tucked inside usually means it lacks understitching or the interfacing is too light. Understitch close to the seam and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Pattern pieces that hang crookedly or twist once sewn were likely cut without aligning the grainline to the fabric's lengthwise threads. Measure the grainline arrow from the selvedge at both ends before pinning down.

Multi-size patterns nested together make it easy to accidentally follow a neighboring size's line partway around a piece. Trace or highlight the chosen size clearly before cutting, checking closely at every curve.