Fit & patternmaking

The standard set of lines and symbols used to draw a dart on a pattern, showing its legs, apex, and fold line so it can be transferred accurately to fabric.

The process of moving a dart's point closer to or farther from the bust or hip apex to correct fit or match a design change.

A dart manipulation technique in which a pattern is pivoted around the dart apex to close an existing dart while a new dart opens automatically at another edge.

A dart that is stitched only partway to its point and released as soft fabric folds rather than pressed flat, adding gentle shaping with a softer silhouette than a standard dart.

Wrinkles that run at an angle across a garment, generally pointing toward the area of tightness or insufficient fabric that is causing the strain.

Diagonal or radiating wrinkles that form on a garment when fabric is pulled taut toward a point of tightness or strain, indicating where a pattern needs adjustment.

A dart whose shape and placement are determined by pinning fabric directly on a dress form rather than by drafting formulas, allowing organic, sculptural shaping.

A patternmaking method in which fabric is pinned and shaped directly on a dress form or body to develop a pattern, as an alternative to flat drafting from measurements.

Plain cotton fabric used in the draping process to pin and shape a pattern directly on a dress form before the design is transferred to paper.

A three-dimensional body-shaped mannequin, adjustable or fixed to specific measurements, used for draping, fitting, and evaluating a garment's fit off the wearer's body.