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Fabric bunching under the foot
Fabric gathering into folds right at the needle instead of feeding smoothly usually means too much foot pressure, a dull needle, or bulky layers meeting at once. Reduce foot pressure and pivot slowly over intersections.
beginner · Fabric handling problems
Fabric care labels
Standardised symbols printed on fabric bolts or garment labels indicating washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions for a textile.
beginner · Care & preparation
Fabric dyeing
Process of applying colour to fibre, yarn, or finished fabric using dye baths, which may be immersion, hand-painted, or resist-based, altering or refreshing a textile's colour.
beginner · Dyeing & printing
Fabric marking pen
A pen filled with ink or dye designed to mark fabric temporarily, with the mark later removed by water, heat, or exposure to air.
beginner · Marking & measuring
Fabric not feeding
Fabric that stalls under the presser foot is typically caused by dropped feed dogs, too-light foot pressure, or lint packed under the plate. Check the feed dog setting, raise foot pressure, and clean out lint.
beginner · Machine problems
Fabric shifting while cutting
Pattern pieces ending up slightly distorted despite careful layout often come from fabric sliding under the pattern weights or shears as you cut. Use a rotary cutter with a mat, or weight the pattern heavily.
beginner · Cutting & pattern problems
Fabric shrinkage
The reduction in a fabric's dimensions after washing or steaming, caused by relaxation of finishing tension or fibre swelling, addressed by pre-washing before cutting.
beginner · Care & preparation
Fabric slipping while sewing
Layers shifting out of alignment as they're stitched, common with silky fabrics, comes from insufficient friction between layers and the feed dogs. Pin generously, hand-baste, or use tissue paper and a walking foot.
beginner · Fabric handling problems
Fabric stash
A home sewist's personal accumulated collection of fabric purchased for future projects, a common feature of hobbyist sewing culture often documented and discussed in sewing communities online.
beginner · Sewing community & media
Fabric stretching while sewing
A seam that ends up longer than the fabric it was cut from, common on knits and bias cuts, comes from the foot or hands pulling fabric taut while sewing. Support the fabric's weight instead of pulling it.
intermediate · Fabric handling problems
Fabric weight (GSM)
A fabric's mass per unit area, commonly measured in grams per square metre, used to judge suitability for a garment and to match pattern recommendations.
beginner · Fabric properties
Faced hem
A hem finished by attaching a separate shaped facing strip to the raw edge instead of turning up fabric, used when the garment lacks allowance for a folded hem.
intermediate · Hems
Facing
A shaped piece of fabric sewn to an edge such as a neckline, armhole, or hem and turned to the inside to finish the raw edge cleanly.
beginner · Edges & facings
Faggoting
A decorative technique that joins two finished edges with an open, ladder-like pattern of stitches across a visible gap, rather than a closed seam.
advanced · Topstitching & decorative
Fair trade fashion certification
Third-party certification schemes that verify garment supply chains meet standards for fair wages, safe working conditions, and environmental practices, developed largely from the 1990s onward in response to sweatshop scandals.
intermediate · Fashion industry & ethics
Farthingale
A hooped or padded understructure worn beneath skirts from the 15th to early 17th centuries to create a rigid conical or wheel-shaped silhouette, first developed in Spain.
advanced · Historical garments & silhouettes
Fast fashion
A retail business model built on rapidly translating runway and trend ideas into cheap, mass-produced clothing with quick turnaround, expanding globally from the 1990s alongside globalized garment manufacturing.
beginner · Fashion industry & ethics
Fat quarter
A quarter-yard cut of fabric shaped as a roughly square piece rather than a long narrow strip, popular for quilting and small projects.
beginner · Fabric & grain terms
Faux fur
A pile fabric with a knitted or woven backing and a long synthetic pile that mimics animal fur, cut from the backing only to avoid shearing the pile.
intermediate · Speciality fabrics
Faux leather
A synthetic fabric, usually polyurethane-coated woven or knit backing, designed to imitate leather's look and hand at lower cost and with more stretch.
intermediate · Speciality fabrics
FBA
The common abbreviation for 'full bust adjustment,' a pattern alteration frequently discussed by name in sewing forums and pattern instructions.
intermediate · Community slang & abbreviations
Feather stitch
Openwork hand embroidery stitch made of alternating angled loops branching from a central line, producing a feathery, vine-like border often used on smocked or heirloom garments.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Feed dogs
Metal teeth beneath the needle plate that rise, move forward, and drop in a rotating motion to grip and advance fabric through the machine with each stitch.
beginner · Machine anatomy
Fell stitch
A small, slanted hand stitch used to permanently secure a folded edge flat against another layer, such as a facing or waistband lining, common in couture finishing.
advanced · Couture
Felling
A hand-finishing technique in tailoring where a folded edge, such as a lining or facing, is secured invisibly with small slanted stitches.
intermediate · Tailoring
Finished garment measurements
The actual dimensions of a completed garment as it lies flat, distinct from the body measurements it is intended to fit, showing the ease built into the design.
beginner · Ease & sizing
Finished measurements
The actual dimensions of a completed garment, including all built-in ease, as opposed to the raw body measurements the pattern was originally drafted around.
beginner · Measurement terms
Fit model
A person with standardized body measurements who tries on sample garments during development so a design house can check and refine the fit.
advanced · Industry & business terms
Fit-and-flare dress
A dress fitted through the bodice and waist that flares dramatically outward at the hip, often using a circle or gored skirt.
intermediate · Dresses
Fitting buddy
A second person who helps assess and pin fit corrections on a garment being fitted, since many fitting problems are difficult to see or reach alone.
beginner · Toiles & fitting process
Fitting session
A structured process of trying on a toile or garment in progress, observing wrinkles and balance, and marking or pinning changes to correct the fit.
beginner · Toiles & fitting process
Fitting shell
A simplified test garment, usually a bodice or trouser front and back with minimal design details, sewn specifically to evaluate and correct fit before developing a full pattern block.
intermediate · Toiles & fitting process
Fixing a pulled thread snag
A loop of thread pulled from a knit's surface, leaving a puckered dot, should never be cut. Use a small crochet hook or needle to work the slack back to the fabric's wrong side.
beginner · Mending & repair
Flannel
A soft, loosely woven fabric, traditionally wool and later cotton, brushed to raise a light nap for warmth; associated with Welsh textile production from at least the 17th century.
beginner · Textile history
Flap pocket
A pocket, often welt or patch style, covered by a shaped flap of fabric that hangs down over the opening.
intermediate · Pockets
Flapper dress
A loose, straight-cut dress with a dropped waist and hemline typically at or above the knee, worn by young women of the 1920s who embraced a modern, active lifestyle.
beginner · Historical garments & silhouettes
Flat lining
Attaching a lining piece to a garment piece by stitching around the edges of each cut piece before assembly, treating the two layers as one from then on.
intermediate · Linings & interfacing
Flat pattern
A pattern drafted using measurements, rulers, and math directly on paper, as opposed to draping fabric on a body or dress form.
intermediate · Pattern terms
Flat seat
A seat shape flatter than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing excess fabric to sag and fold vertically below the waistband at the back of trousers or a skirt.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Flat seat adjustment
A pattern alteration that removes excess width and length from the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to fit a seat flatter than the block assumes.
intermediate · Fit adjustments