Mistakes & fixes

Fabric pulled down into the needle plate at the start of a seam happens when feed dogs grab thin fabric before the stitch locks. Start on a scrap leader and hold both threads taut behind the foot.

A machine that locks up, often with a knot of thread underneath, usually means the bobbin is threaded backward or wound around the case. Clear the jam by hand, rewind the bobbin, and rethread from scratch.

Skipped stitches on knit fabric happen when the needle pushes fabric down into the plate hole instead of piercing it, usually from a sharp needle or overly stretched fabric. Switch to a ballpoint needle and support the fabric.

Fabric going stiff or glossy under the iron has actually begun to melt, which happens with polyester, nylon, or spandex pressed too hot. Always test heat on a scrap first and use the lowest workable setting.

A seam that has come apart along its stitching line, usually at a stress point like the underarm, needs the old thread trimmed away and the seam restitched, often reinforced with a bar tack.

Seams that won't align smoothly, bunching at one end, usually trace to notches cut wrong or omitted entirely. Cut notches outward from the seamline as small triangles, matching the pattern exactly, and never skip them.

Side seams that don't align at the waist, hem, or underarm when laid flat usually come from uneven seam allowances or one piece eased more than the other. Pin at key match points and check the allowance.