All articles

A table listing body measurements matched against pattern sizes, used by a sewist to decide which size to cut for the best fit.

A garment that doesn't fit despite following the pattern comes from choosing a size by ready-to-wear labels rather than the pattern's own body measurements. Measure yourself and compare directly to the finished measurement chart.

Stitches that fail to form, leaving gaps, usually come from a bent, dull, or wrong-type needle, or bad threading. Replace the needle, match it to the fabric, and rethread top and bobbin.

A basic sloper covering the body from waist to hip level, fitted with darts to the waist, used as the foundation for drafting skirt designs.

The process of constructing a skirt pattern from waist and hip measurements, typically starting from a basic skirt block and shaping it into a chosen silhouette.

Short for 'stock keeping unit,' a unique code identifying one specific product variation, such as a particular size and color of a garment.

A pattern alteration method that involves cutting a pattern piece apart along marked lines and spreading the resulting pieces to add fullness or length.

A pocket accessed through a diagonal or curved slit cut into the garment, with the pocket bag hidden behind the opening.

A basic sloper for a set-in sleeve, drafted to match the armhole of a corresponding bodice block, used as the foundation for drafting sleeve designs.

A narrow, two-tiered miniature ironing board sized to fit inside a sleeve or other tight tubular garment section for pressing without creasing the opposite side.

The small amount of extra fullness built into a sleeve cap above the arm's actual circumference, eased in to create smooth shape over the shoulder.

The process of constructing a sleeve pattern to fit a corresponding armhole, calculating the sleeve cap height and width so that its ease matches the armhole's circumference.

A strip of wadding or bias-cut fabric inserted into the sleeve cap seam to support the ease and maintain a smooth, rounded shoulder shape.

A separate lining, often a slippery fabric, cut and sewn to a garment's sleeve to allow the arm to slide in and out easily.

A modification made to an existing sleeve pattern, such as adding a flounce, changing the length, or converting a set-in sleeve into a different sleeve style.

The forward or backward tilt of a sleeve pattern relative to the bodice side seam, affecting whether the sleeve hangs naturally in line with the wearer's arm.

A finished slit at the sleeve hem, often on tailored jacket cuffs, that may be functional with real buttonholes or purely decorative.

An undergarment worn beneath a dress or skirt to smooth the silhouette and prevent fabric cling, typically cut from lightweight, often bias-cut fabric.

A minimalist, bias-cut dress with thin straps and a simple silhouette, modeled on undergarment slips and typically made from lightweight fabric.

A nearly invisible hand stitch that catches a few threads of the garment fabric and slides through the folded edge of a hem or lining.

Satin or silk sliding apart mid-seam despite pinning is caused by low surface friction between layers. Use fine silk pins or clips, hand-baste critical seams, and sew slowly with a walking foot.

A pattern alteration that lowers the shoulder point of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders more angled downward than the standard block assumes.

The American term for a basic, made-to-fit pattern with no seam allowances or style lines, used as a foundation when drafting new pattern designs; called a block in British usage.

A shoulder shape more angled downward than the standard pattern block assumes, causing diagonal drag lines from the neckline to the shoulder point and a gaping armhole.

A decorative seam in which two folded edges are spaced apart over a separate strip of fabric and topstitched on both sides, creating a centered inset panel.

A movement advocating fewer, higher-quality, and more thoughtfully made garments over disposable trend-driven clothing, emphasizing durability, ethical labor, and reduced environmental impact; the term was coined around 2007.

A pattern alteration that removes width and length from the bust area of a bodice, typically by overlapping the pattern, to fit a bust smaller than the block assumes.

A decorative technique that gathers fabric into small, controlled folds secured with embroidery stitches, both shaping and ornamenting the surface.

Row of snap fasteners along the inseam or crotch of an infant garment allowing it to be opened flat for easy nappy changes.

A two-part mechanical fastener with interlocking ball-and-socket discs that click together, used for quick, low-profile closures on garments and accessories.

Twill tape pre-fitted with evenly spaced snap fasteners, stitched to a garment opening in one pass, commonly used on baby clothing for quick closures.

The bobbin thread breaking mid-seam, leaving only top stitches, often means the bobbin was wound unevenly, inserted backward, or lint has jammed the case. Rewind the bobbin evenly, reinsert correctly, and clean the case.

A highly elastic synthetic fibre (polyurethane) that stretches many times its length and recovers, blended in small percentages into wovens and knits for stretch.

A document listing a garment's precise measurements at every key point, used by a manufacturer to keep sizing consistent across a production run.

A small upright post on a sewing machine that holds the thread spool in place as thread feeds off toward the tension discs and needle.

A supportive undergarment designed to minimize breast movement during physical activity, constructed from stretch fabric with reinforced encapsulation or compression panels.

A pattern alteration that raises and extends the shoulder line of a bodice pattern outward to fit shoulders flatter than the standard block assumes.

A shoulder shape flatter and less sloped than the standard pattern block assumes, causing wrinkles to radiate from the neck and excess fabric to pool near the shoulder tip.

A temporary or permanent backing placed under fabric during machine embroidery or stitching to prevent puckering, stretching or distortion from the needle and thread tension.

A fabric's resistance to distortion or stretching out of shape during handling, cutting and sewing, often improved with interfacing or stay tape on loosely woven or stretch fabrics.