Sleeve head
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A strip of wadding or bias-cut fabric inserted into the sleeve cap seam to support the ease and maintain a smooth, rounded shoulder shape.
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See also
Under-collar
The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.
Bridle stitch
A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.
Felling
A hand-finishing technique in tailoring where a folded edge, such as a lining or facing, is secured invisibly with small slanted stitches.
Shoulder pad insertion
Attaching a shaped foam or fiber shoulder pad inside a garment's shoulder seam to build out and support the shoulder line.
Taping the roll line
Stitching twill tape along a lapel's roll line to stabilize it and control the exact point and angle at which the lapel folds back.
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