Under-collar
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The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.
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See also
Bridle stitch
A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.
Felling
A hand-finishing technique in tailoring where a folded edge, such as a lining or facing, is secured invisibly with small slanted stitches.
Taping the roll line
Stitching twill tape along a lapel's roll line to stabilize it and control the exact point and angle at which the lapel folds back.
Armhole taping
Stitching stay tape around an armhole seam in a tailored jacket to prevent the armhole from stretching during construction and wear.
Hair canvas interfacing
A woven interfacing of hair, wool, and cotton fibers, hand or machine stitched into a jacket's chest and lapel to build structured, moldable shape in traditional tailoring.
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