Techniques

Stitching stay tape around an armhole seam in a tailored jacket to prevent the armhole from stretching during construction and wear.

A strong hand stitch made by inserting the needle behind the previous stitch's end, producing a solid, continuous line similar to machine stitching.

A technique for constructing and turning a fully lined garment, such as a jacket, right side out through a small opening so all raw edges end up enclosed.

A short, dense zigzag or hand-worked reinforcement stitched at points of stress, such as pocket corners or fly ends, to prevent seams from tearing open.

A single-layer shirt cuff fastened with one or two buttons, named for its cylindrical shape when closed around the wrist.

Surface embellishment technique in which beads are stitched individually or in strings onto fabric with a beading needle and thread to create texture, pattern, or sparkle.

An inset pocket finished with two narrow folded strips forming lips on either side of a slit opening, commonly used on tailored jackets and trousers.

A narrow strip of bias-cut fabric sewn to an edge and turned to the inside, used to finish curved edges with minimal bulk.

Small tool that folds a strip of bias-cut fabric into even single- or double-fold tape as it is pressed, speeding up preparation of binding for edges and facings.

A neckline finished by binding the raw edge with a bias strip instead of a separate facing, giving a narrow, clean edge.

A looped edge stitch that wraps around a raw or folded edge, used to finish edges or attach appliqué.

A hem stitched so the stitching is nearly invisible from the right side, worked by hand with a blind hemming stitch or by machine with a blind hem foot.

Fusing interfacing to a large piece of fabric before the pattern pieces are cut from it, ensuring even stability and grain alignment across every piece.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, historically whalebone and now plastic or steel, inserted into channels within a bodice to maintain a fitted, structured shape.

A buttonhole finished with folded fabric strips, or lips, instead of thread, giving a tailored, couture-quality opening usually made before the garment is fully assembled.

A finish in which a folded binding strip encases the raw edge of a seam allowance, stitched through all layers; used when a seam will remain unlined and visible.

A pleat formed by two folds turned away from each other on the front, creating a flat panel with fabric hidden behind it on both sides.

A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.

Construction technique for enclosing a shoulder or yoke seam by rolling the garment body between the yoke layers before stitching, so the seam turns right side out fully finished.

A large patch pocket, often with box pleats and a flap closure, applied to the outside of trousers or jackets for extra capacity.

A hand stitch worked with small, criss-crossed stitches between two fabric layers, used to secure hems and facings while allowing flexibility.

A hem secured with a catch stitch worked loosely between the hem edge and the garment, allowing some give and a flat finish from the right side.

A zipper insertion with the teeth centered under an opening and two even rows of topstitching visible on either side, often used at center back.

A hem on a flared or circular-cut garment, eased and often narrowed to accommodate the curved raw edge without puckering.

Stitching a strip of transparent stretch elastic into a knit seam, such as a shoulder seam, to prevent stretching out while retaining flexibility.

A narrow band that attaches the collar to the neckline, allowing the collar to sit upright before folding over on a shirt.

A dart that curves inward at the middle and points at both ends, shaping fabric closely to the body at the waist without a horizontal seam.

A shaped, curved waistband cut to follow the body's natural waist curve rather than a straight strip, giving a closer fit without a separate casing.

A collar designed to be worn open, exposing a notch-like opening at the top button, or closed at the neck like a mandarin collar.

A technique in which a decorative thread or cord is laid on the fabric surface and secured in place with small stitches worked over it.

A stitch made on a coverstitch machine that forms parallel rows of stitching on top and interlocked loops beneath, used for stretchy, professional-looking knit hems and seams.

X-shaped hand embroidery stitch formed by two crossing diagonal stitches, traditionally worked on even-weave fabric using a grid to build geometric or pictorial motifs.

A finished opening at the sleeve hem, faced or bound with a separate strip, that allows the cuff to open wide enough to fit over the hand.

A tapered fold of fabric stitched to a point that removes excess fullness and shapes flat fabric to a body curve, such as at the bust or waist.

Built-in or programmed machine stitch patterns, such as scallops or embroidery motifs, used to embellish a garment's surface or edges.

A hem turned up twice by the same amount so no raw edge is exposed, then stitched near the inner fold.

A dart pointed at both ends and widest in the middle, used to shape a fitted garment at the waist where no horizontal seam exists.

A casing constructed with an opening for a drawstring or cord to pass through and be pulled to adjust fit at a waist, hood, or hem.

A closure made by threading a cord or tape through a casing so the opening can be cinched and tied.

A row of straight stitching worked very close to a finished edge or seamline, used to keep facings flat and add a crisp, defined line.