Mistakes & fixes

Bobbin thread that pulls with no resistance, causing loopy stitches, usually means the small screw on the bobbin case has loosened. Turn it slightly clockwise and test on scrap before sewing the garment.

A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Skipped stitches on a coverstitch hem, especially at the seam start, usually come from an unstabilized layer or fabric not feeding evenly under both needles. Use a stabilizer strip and start on a fabric leader.

Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.

A striped or patterned fabric that doesn't line up across a seam comes from cutting pieces without matching the pattern repeat. Plan the layout so repeats align at key seams, buying extra fabric to allow it.

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the bust point signal the dart isn't positioned or sized correctly for the wearer's shape. Adjust the dart point toward the fullest part of the bust and check its depth.

Corduroy or velvet that looks crushed after ironing comes from pressing directly on the pile with a flat iron sole. Press face-down on a towel or use a needle board so the pile can stand.

Blending two adjacent pattern sizes, such as a smaller bust with a larger waist, is done by tracing each size's line at the relevant area and drawing a smooth curve connecting them across the piece.

A repair technique aimed at hiding damage completely, using matching thread or fine reweaving so the fix disappears into the surrounding fabric. Requires close color and weave matching for a seamless result.

Small folds at the top of a set-in sleeve cap come from easing stitches not distributed evenly around the curve. Run two rows of ease stitching, gather gently, and pin generously before sewing.

A zipper tape that ripples once pressed, though it lay flat while sewing, comes from ironing directly over the teeth and tape without support underneath. Press from the wrong side over a seam roll.

A zipper with broken teeth or a track that won't close needs to be unpicked from the garment and swapped for a new one of matching length and type. Baste the new zipper in before final stitching.

Shoulder seams sitting too wide or narrow, throwing off where the sleeve cap falls, are corrected by unpicking the shoulder and sleeve, moving the seam, and reattaching the sleeve to the adjusted armhole.

Velvet or other pile fabric flattened from pressure or storage can often be restored by steaming from the wrong side without letting the iron touch the pile, then brushing the nap back upright.

Loose loops hanging off a serged edge, or an edge that curls and puckers, points to the tension dials being out of balance for the thread and fabric. Adjust one dial at a time on a scrap.

Fine, sheer fabric sliding out of alignment or getting pulled into the feed dogs comes from its light weight offering little resistance. Sew between two layers of tissue paper or use a straight-stitch throat plate.

Persistent skipped stitches across all needle types and tensions, especially after a hard jam or drop, points to hook timing out of sync with the needle. This needs professional service, not a home fix.

Rippling fabric along a zipper opening comes from stretching the fabric while sewing or using a zipper the wrong length for the opening. Stabilize the seam with interfacing tape and match zip length to the opening.