Mistakes & fixes

A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the bust point signal the dart isn't positioned or sized correctly for the wearer's shape. Adjust the dart point toward the fullest part of the bust and check its depth.

Small folds at the top of a set-in sleeve cap come from easing stitches not distributed evenly around the curve. Run two rows of ease stitching, gather gently, and pin generously before sewing.

Rippling fabric along a zipper opening comes from stretching the fabric while sewing or using a zipper the wrong length for the opening. Stabilize the seam with interfacing tape and match zip length to the opening.