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Cutting line
The outer line marked on a pattern piece indicating exactly where to cut the fabric, positioned beyond the seam line by the width of the seam allowance.
beginner · Pattern terms
Cutting mat
A self-healing, gridded mat that protects work surfaces and guides straight or angled cuts when used together with a rotary cutter.
beginner · Cutting tools
Cutting off-grain
Pattern pieces that hang crookedly or twist once sewn were likely cut without aligning the grainline to the fabric's lengthwise threads. Measure the grainline arrow from the selvedge at both ends before pinning down.
beginner · Cutting & pattern problems
Cutting table
A large, flat, sturdy work surface, often at standing height, sized for laying out fabric and patterns for cutting.
beginner · Dress forms & workspace
Cutting the wrong size line
Multi-size patterns nested together make it easy to accidentally follow a neighboring size's line partway around a piece. Trace or highlight the chosen size clearly before cutting, checking closely at every curve.
beginner · Cutting & pattern problems
Dart
A tapered fold of fabric stitched to a point that removes excess fullness and shapes flat fabric to a body curve, such as at the bust or waist.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Dart notation
The standard set of lines and symbols used to draw a dart on a pattern, showing its legs, apex, and fold line so it can be transferred accurately to fabric.
beginner · Pattern markings & conventions
Decorative machine stitching
Built-in or programmed machine stitch patterns, such as scallops or embroidery motifs, used to embellish a garment's surface or edges.
beginner · Topstitching & decorative
Denim
A sturdy cotton twill fabric, traditionally indigo-dyed on the warp with an undyed weft, used for jeans and workwear; presses and topstitches well.
beginner · Woven fabrics
Diagonal wrinkles (fitting)
Wrinkles that run at an angle across a garment, generally pointing toward the area of tightness or insufficient fabric that is causing the strain.
beginner · Fitting problems
Dot
A printed circular marking on a pattern piece indicating a pivot point, dart tip, or matching point that gets transferred onto the cut fabric.
beginner · Pattern terms
Double-fold hem
A hem turned up twice by the same amount so no raw edge is exposed, then stitched near the inner fold.
beginner · Hems
Draft excluder
Long fabric tube, filled with stuffing, sand, or rice, placed along the bottom of a door or window to block cold air, a classic scrap-fabric project.
beginner · Home & gifts
Drag lines
Diagonal or radiating wrinkles that form on a garment when fabric is pulled taut toward a point of tightness or strain, indicating where a pattern needs adjustment.
beginner · Fitting problems
Drape
The way a fabric falls and moves under its own weight, ranging from stiff and structured to soft, fluid, and clingy.
beginner · Fabric & grain terms
Draping muslin
Plain cotton fabric used in the draping process to pin and shape a pattern directly on a dress form before the design is transferred to paper.
beginner · Draping
Drawstring bag
Bag pattern gathered closed at the top by a cord or ribbon threaded through a casing, used for storage pouches, shoe bags, and gift bags.
beginner · Bags & accessories
Drawstring casing
A casing constructed with an opening for a drawstring or cord to pass through and be pulled to adjust fit at a waist, hood, or hem.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Drawstring closure
A closure made by threading a cord or tape through a casing so the opening can be cinched and tied.
beginner · Closures
Dress form
A three-dimensional body-shaped mannequin, adjustable or fixed to specific measurements, used for draping, fitting, and evaluating a garment's fit off the wearer's body.
beginner · Draping
Dressmaker
A person, historically almost always a woman, who makes women's clothing to custom order or to a client's individual measurements.
beginner · Historical terms
Dressmaker shears
Long-bladed scissors with an offset, bent handle that lets the lower blade rest flat on the cutting table for accurate cutting through fabric layers.
beginner · Cutting tools
Dressmaker's carbon paper
Waxed, colored transfer paper placed between a pattern and fabric so a tracing wheel presses temporary marking lines onto the fabric surface.
beginner · Marking & measuring
Dry cleaning
A garment-cleaning process using chemical solvents instead of water, required for fabrics that distort, shrink or bleed dye when laundered, such as wool suiting and structured silks.
beginner · Care & preparation
Dungarees
Loose trousers with a bib front and adjustable shoulder straps, traditionally made from sturdy cotton twill or denim for manual labor.
beginner · Jeans & workwear
Dust and lint management (machine safety)
Routine removal of lint and dust from a sewing machine's bobbin case and feed dogs to prevent overheating, jamming, and premature wear.
beginner · Workspace & safety
Dye bleeding
Color transferring onto another fabric during washing, or running when the garment gets wet, comes from unfixed or excess dye in the fibers, common in dark or hand-dyed fabrics. Wash separately in cold water with a color-catcher sheet.
beginner · Fabric rescue & care
Edge stitch foot
A presser foot with a central guide blade that rides along a folded or seamed edge, keeping the stitching a precise, consistent distance from the edge.
beginner · Presser feet
Edge stitching
A row of straight stitching worked very close to a finished edge or seamline, used to keep facings flat and add a crisp, defined line.
beginner · Topstitching & decorative
Elastic (sewing)
A stretchable band, braided, knitted or woven with rubber or spandex core yarns, used in waistbands, casings and cuffs for gathered, adjustable fit.
beginner · Fastenings & hardware
Elastic casing
A fabric tunnel formed by folding and stitching fabric to hold elastic, allowing the waist or edge to stretch and fit without a separate closure.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Elastic thread
Fine elastic-cored thread wound onto the bobbin and used with regular thread on top to create shirring, gathering fabric into stretchy rows as it is stitched.
beginner · Threads & needles
Elasticated waistband
A waistband constructed with elastic sewn directly to the fabric or inserted into a casing, giving stretch and eliminating the need for a fastener.
beginner · Waistbands & elastic
Electronic sewing machine
A machine with an electronic motor and circuit board for consistent speed control, while stitch selection is still set mechanically via dials, blending durability with convenience.
beginner · Sewing machine types
Embroidery hoop
A pair of concentric rings that clamp fabric taut and, for machine embroidery, attaches to the machine's drive arm to be moved automatically during stitching.
beginner · Embroidery & software
Embroidery machine
A sewing machine, often computerized, that stitches pre-programmed decorative designs by moving a hooped fabric under the needle according to digital instructions.
beginner · Embroidery & software
Embroidery scissors
Small, sharply pointed scissors, often around four inches long, used for precise trimming of thread and detail work close to fabric.
beginner · Cutting tools
Fabric bunching under the foot
Fabric gathering into folds right at the needle instead of feeding smoothly usually means too much foot pressure, a dull needle, or bulky layers meeting at once. Reduce foot pressure and pivot slowly over intersections.
beginner · Fabric handling problems
Fabric care labels
Standardised symbols printed on fabric bolts or garment labels indicating washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions for a textile.
beginner · Care & preparation
Fabric dyeing
Process of applying colour to fibre, yarn, or finished fabric using dye baths, which may be immersion, hand-painted, or resist-based, altering or refreshing a textile's colour.
beginner · Dyeing & printing