Fit & patternmaking

A skirt draft in which the waist darts of a basic skirt block are rotated or the side seams are angled outward to create a gently flared silhouette from waist to hem.

Extra fabric volume built into a pattern beyond the minimum needed for fit, achieved through techniques such as slash-and-spread, gathering, or pleating, to create a design's intended shape.

The distance from the shoulder point to the wrist bone, taken with the elbow slightly bent, used to set sleeve length on a pattern draft.

The vertical distance from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline, used to check and adjust bodice length on a pattern.

Marks placed on pattern pieces to indicate where two edges of different lengths, such as a sleeve cap and armhole, should align during construction so ease is distributed correctly.

A general term for any foundational, unfitted-detail pattern piece—such as a bodice, skirt, sleeve, or trouser block—from which other pattern designs are developed.

The circumference of the upper arm at its fullest point, used to ensure adequate width across the sleeve cap and upper sleeve of a garment.

The horizontal circumference of the torso taken around the fullest part of the bust, used as a primary reference point for bodice and dress pattern sizing.

The standard set of lines and symbols used to draw a dart on a pattern, showing its legs, apex, and fold line so it can be transferred accurately to fabric.

Wrinkles that run at an angle across a garment, generally pointing toward the area of tightness or insufficient fabric that is causing the strain.

Diagonal or radiating wrinkles that form on a garment when fabric is pulled taut toward a point of tightness or strain, indicating where a pattern needs adjustment.

Plain cotton fabric used in the draping process to pin and shape a pattern directly on a dress form before the design is transferred to paper.

A three-dimensional body-shaped mannequin, adjustable or fixed to specific measurements, used for draping, fitting, and evaluating a garment's fit off the wearer's body.

The actual dimensions of a completed garment as it lies flat, distinct from the body measurements it is intended to fit, showing the ease built into the design.

A second person who helps assess and pin fit corrections on a garment being fitted, since many fitting problems are difficult to see or reach alone.

A structured process of trying on a toile or garment in progress, observing wrinkles and balance, and marking or pinning changes to correct the fit.

A term for a basic block or sloper used as the structural starting point for developing new pattern designs through slashing, spreading, or adding style lines.

A fitting problem in which a neckline stands away from the body in loose folds rather than lying flat, usually caused by excess fabric or an overly wide curve.

A straight arrow printed or drawn on a pattern piece indicating the direction the lengthwise fabric grain must run when the piece is laid out for cutting.

The extra fabric length added beyond a garment's finished hemline, folded up and stitched during construction to create a clean, durable hem edge.

A circumference taken above the bust and under the arms, close to the ribcage, often used instead of the full bust measurement to choose a bodice pattern size.

The horizontal circumference around the fullest part of the hips and seat, usually seven to nine inches below the waist, used to size skirts and trousers.

A basic pattern alteration performed at printed lengthen-or-shorten lines to change a garment's length in a chosen area without distorting its proportions or seam shapes.

A test garment sewn from plain cotton muslin fabric to check a pattern's fit and proportions before committing to the final fabric; the American term for a toile.

Small marks cut or drawn into the seam allowance edge of a pattern piece to indicate matching points between pieces, easing locations, or the front and back of a garment.

The standard information printed or written on each pattern piece, including the piece name, cut quantity, grainline, and size, needed to identify and cut it correctly.

A skirt draft that follows the basic skirt block closely, producing a fitted silhouette that falls straight from the hip to the hem with minimal added flare.

A trial garment made from inexpensive fabric to test and refine the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting the intended fashion fabric.

The process of copying a pattern piece, whether from a commercial pattern, a garment, or another pattern, onto new paper so the original can be preserved and the copy altered.

A dart originating at the waist edge of a bodice or skirt pattern and tapering toward the bust or hip, used to shape flat fabric to the body's curve.

The horizontal circumference taken around the narrowest part of the torso, typically above the navel, used to size skirts, trousers, and fitted bodices.

The process of drafting a straight or shaped band attached to the top edge of a skirt or trouser pattern to finish and support the waistline.

The circumference of the wrist, used to size cuffs and determine the ease needed for a sleeve opening or long-sleeve hem to slide over the hand.