Fit & patternmaking

A skirt draft in which the waist darts of a basic skirt block are rotated or the side seams are angled outward to create a gently flared silhouette from waist to hem.

Garments modified or designed with alternative closures, openings, or seams to make dressing easier for people with disabilities, limited mobility, or sensory sensitivities.

Extra fabric volume built into a pattern beyond the minimum needed for fit, achieved through techniques such as slash-and-spread, gathering, or pleating, to create a design's intended shape.

The distance from the shoulder point to the wrist bone, taken with the elbow slightly bent, used to set sleeve length on a pattern draft.

The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the back torso pattern, incorporating the shoulder blade dart or ease, waist shaping, and armhole curve calculated from back body measurements.

The vertical distance from the prominent bone at the base of the neck to the natural waistline, used to check and adjust bodice length on a pattern.

The state of a garment hanging evenly on the body with its seams and grainlines running true, without twisting toward the front, back, or one side.

Marks placed on pattern pieces to indicate where two edges of different lengths, such as a sleeve cap and armhole, should align during construction so ease is distributed correctly.

A general term for any foundational, unfitted-detail pattern piece—such as a bodice, skirt, sleeve, or trouser block—from which other pattern designs are developed.

A pattern alteration that adds or removes width in the upper sleeve to match an arm circumference that differs from the block's assumed bicep measurement.

The circumference of the upper arm at its fullest point, used to ensure adequate width across the sleeve cap and upper sleeve of a garment.

A basic sloper covering the torso from shoulder to waist, fitted with darts to the bust and waist, used as the foundation for drafting bodices, tops, and dresses.

The process of constructing a fitted torso pattern from a set of body measurements using drafting formulas and a straightedge, producing front and back pieces shaped with darts.

A pattern hacking technique that extends a bodice pattern's hemline and adjusts its shaping to convert a top pattern into a full dress pattern.

A pattern alteration that adds width across the upper back of a bodice pattern, usually by slashing and spreading, to accommodate a back broader than the block assumes.

Excess fabric that folds or gathers at the underarm seam of a bodice or sleeve, typically caused by an armhole cut too large or too deep for the wearer.

The horizontal circumference of the torso taken around the fullest part of the bust, used as a primary reference point for bodice and dress pattern sizing.

A skirt draft based on radius calculations from the waist measurement, producing a pattern that flares in a full circle or half circle without darts.

The process of constructing a collar pattern shaped to fit a garment's neckline, determining the collar's stand height, fall, and roll line based on the desired style.

The curved seam line of a trouser pattern that shapes the crotch area between the front and back leg pieces, critical to comfort and the elimination of crotch wrinkles.

The vertical distance from the waist to the seat while seated, used in trouser drafting to position the crotch line and set the rise of the pattern.

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the crotch seam of trousers, indicating that the crotch curve, rise, or crotch length does not match the wearer's body shape.

The process of constructing a band or shaped pattern piece that finishes the opening of a sleeve at the wrist, sized to the wrist measurement plus ease for closure.

A manual grading method in which a pattern is sliced along designated lines and spread apart or overlapped by fixed increments to create a larger or smaller size.

The standard set of lines and symbols used to draw a dart on a pattern, showing its legs, apex, and fold line so it can be transferred accurately to fabric.

The process of moving a dart's point closer to or farther from the bust or hip apex to correct fit or match a design change.

A dart manipulation technique in which a pattern is pivoted around the dart apex to close an existing dart while a new dart opens automatically at another edge.

A dart that is stitched only partway to its point and released as soft fabric folds rather than pressed flat, adding gentle shaping with a softer silhouette than a standard dart.

Wrinkles that run at an angle across a garment, generally pointing toward the area of tightness or insufficient fabric that is causing the strain.

Diagonal or radiating wrinkles that form on a garment when fabric is pulled taut toward a point of tightness or strain, indicating where a pattern needs adjustment.

A dart whose shape and placement are determined by pinning fabric directly on a dress form rather than by drafting formulas, allowing organic, sculptural shaping.

A patternmaking method in which fabric is pinned and shaped directly on a dress form or body to develop a pattern, as an alternative to flat drafting from measurements.

Plain cotton fabric used in the draping process to pin and shape a pattern directly on a dress form before the design is transferred to paper.

A three-dimensional body-shaped mannequin, adjustable or fixed to specific measurements, used for draping, fitting, and evaluating a garment's fit off the wearer's body.

A bodice draft with the horizontal seam positioned just below the bust rather than at the natural waist, used for empire-waist dresses and tops.

The actual dimensions of a completed garment as it lies flat, distinct from the body measurements it is intended to fit, showing the ease built into the design.

A second person who helps assess and pin fit corrections on a garment being fitted, since many fitting problems are difficult to see or reach alone.

A structured process of trying on a toile or garment in progress, observing wrinkles and balance, and marking or pinning changes to correct the fit.

A simplified test garment, usually a bodice or trouser front and back with minimal design details, sewn specifically to evaluate and correct fit before developing a full pattern block.

A seat shape flatter than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing excess fabric to sag and fold vertically below the waistband at the back of trousers or a skirt.