Fit & patternmaking

A pattern alteration that removes excess width and length from the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to fit a seat flatter than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that reshapes the lower portion of a sleeve to accommodate a forearm that is bent, muscular, or otherwise shaped differently from the standard block.

A posture or body shape in which the shoulders sit rotated forward of the torso's natural balance line, causing the shoulder seam of a garment to pull toward the front.

A pattern alteration that rotates the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern forward to match shoulders that sit ahead of the torso's standard balance line.

A term for a basic block or sloper used as the structural starting point for developing new pattern designs through slashing, spreading, or adding style lines.

The portion of a bodice draft that shapes the front torso pattern, incorporating the bust dart, waist dart, neckline, and armhole curve calculated from front body measurements.

A stomach shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal drag lines below the waist and a front hemline that rises above the back.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the front of a skirt or trouser pattern below the waist to accommodate a stomach fuller than the block assumes.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the bust area of a bodice, typically by slashing and spreading the pattern, to fit a bust larger than the block assumes.

A seat shape fuller than the standard pattern block assumes, commonly causing horizontal wrinkles below the waistband and drag lines pulling across the back of trousers or a skirt.

A pattern alteration that adds width and length to the back of a trouser or skirt pattern below the waist to accommodate a seat fuller than the block assumes.

A fitting problem in which the armhole edge stands away from the body instead of following the arm and torso closely, often exposing underwear or skin.

A fitting problem in which a neckline stands away from the body in loose folds rather than lying flat, usually caused by excess fabric or an overly wide curve.

The systematic process of increasing or decreasing a pattern's measurements at each point to produce a full range of sizes from a single base pattern.

A straight arrow printed or drawn on a pattern piece indicating the direction the lengthwise fabric grain must run when the piece is laid out for cutting.

The extra fabric length added beyond a garment's finished hemline, folded up and stitched during construction to create a clean, durable hem edge.

A circumference taken above the bust and under the arms, close to the ribcage, often used instead of the full bust measurement to choose a bodice pattern size.

Fullness at the hip located higher on the body than the standard pattern block assumes, causing tightness or drag lines a few inches below the waistline on skirts and trousers.

The horizontal circumference around the fullest part of the hips and seat, usually seven to nine inches below the waist, used to size skirts and trousers.

A pattern alteration that removes excess fabric from the upper front of a bodice to fit a chest less full than the standard block assumes.

A basic pattern alteration performed at printed lengthen-or-shorten lines to change a garment's length in a chosen area without distorting its proportions or seam shapes.

Fastener using paired magnets sewn behind a garment placket to replace buttons or snaps, allowing a garment to be closed with one hand or reduced dexterity.

Stretch fabric panel inserted into the front of trousers or skirts to accommodate a growing abdomen while keeping the waistband in place.

A test garment sewn from plain cotton muslin fabric to check a pattern's fit and proportions before committing to the final fabric; the American term for a toile.

A back width narrower than the standard pattern block assumes, causing excess fabric to pool between the shoulder blades and the armhole to hang away from the body.

A pattern alteration that shortens the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders narrower than the standard block assumes, preventing the sleeve seam from drooping.

A modification made to an existing neckline pattern, such as lowering it, adding a facing shape, or changing it from a round to a V or square neckline.

A finished garment measurement smaller than the body measurement it covers, relying on stretch fabric to fit snugly, as commonly used for knitwear and activewear.

A multi-size pattern printed with the cutting lines for every included size layered on top of one another on a single pattern piece.

Small marks cut or drawn into the seam allowance edge of a pattern piece to indicate matching points between pieces, easing locations, or the front and back of a garment.

Discreet opening, overlap, or panel built into a garment's bodice to allow breastfeeding access without fully undressing, such as a wrap front or hidden zip.

Garment modification, such as replacing back closures with front ones or substituting easier fasteners, that allows a wearer to dress independently using only one hand.

The technique of combining pattern pieces or size lines from two or more patterns, or two adjacent sizes, into a single custom pattern piece.

The practice of modifying an existing commercial or drafted sewing pattern to create a different design, such as changing a neckline, sleeve, or silhouette, without drafting from scratch.

The standard information printed or written on each pattern piece, including the piece name, cut quantity, grainline, and size, needed to identify and cut it correctly.

A sloper drafted or fitted specifically to one individual's body measurements rather than a standard size, used to produce well-fitting patterns for that person alone.

A set of proportional alterations, usually shortening the torso, sleeves, and rise, that adapt a standard pattern to fit a shorter-than-average body.

A pattern alteration technique in which a section of a pattern is pivoted around a fixed point and slid to add or remove width or length without cutting the pattern apart.

A dart manipulation technique that moves a dart to a new position by pivoting the pattern piece around the dart apex without cutting the paper apart.

A true vertical reference line, established with a weighted string or level, used during fitting to check whether a garment's center front, center back, or side seam hangs straight.