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A stitch pattern combining several straight stitches with a single zigzag jog, used with a folded hem to catch fabric almost invisibly from the right side.

A basic pattern shape, drafted to fit a specific set of body measurements without seam allowances or design details, used as the foundation for other patterns; called a sloper in American usage.

Fusing interfacing to a large piece of fabric before the pattern pieces are cut from it, ensuring even stability and grain alignment across every piece.

Hand-printing technique in which a carved wooden or linoleum block is inked or dyed and pressed onto fabric to transfer a repeating design.

Dampening or steaming a piece, especially a knit, and pinning it to dry in a set shape and dimension to correct distortion before or after construction.

Loose trousers gathered at the ankle, worn under a shorter skirt and popularized by Amelia Bloomer in the 1850s as a practical, controversial alternative to restrictive Victorian dress.

A loose-fitting upper-body garment for women, traditionally softer and more decorative than a tailored shirt, often gathered or finished at the waist or hip.

A wide, shallow neckline that runs nearly horizontally from shoulder to shoulder, closely following the collarbone.

A small spool that holds the lower thread supply, fitting into the bobbin case beneath the needle plate to form the underside of a lockstitch.

A metal or plastic holder that houses the bobbin and regulates lower-thread tension via an adjustable spring before the thread reaches the needle plate.

Bobbin thread that pulls with no resistance, causing loopy stitches, usually means the small screw on the bobbin case has loosened. Turn it slightly clockwise and test on scrap before sewing the garment.

Fine-tuning the small screw on the bobbin case that controls how much resistance the lower thread meets, used to correct or balance stitch formation.

Dots of bobbin-colored thread on the fabric's right side mean top tension is too tight relative to the bobbin, pulling bobbin thread up through the fabric. Loosen the top tension and test on a scrap.

A spindle and motor mechanism on a sewing machine that winds thread evenly onto an empty bobbin, usually engaged by disengaging the main stitching mechanism.

A basic sloper covering the torso from shoulder to waist, fitted with darts to the bust and waist, used as the foundation for drafting bodices, tops, and dresses.

The process of constructing a fitted torso pattern from a set of body measurements using drafting formulas and a straightedge, producing front and back pieces shaped with darts.

A pattern hacking technique that extends a bodice pattern's hemline and adjusts its shaping to convert a top pattern into a full dress pattern.

The set of measurements taken directly from a person's body, such as bust, waist, and hip circumference, used to choose or draft a pattern size.

A knitted or woven wool fabric that has been felted through heat, moisture and agitation, producing a dense, non-fraying fabric that needs no seam finishing.

A one-piece garment combining a jacket and trousers into a single front-zippered or buttoned suit, designed to protect the wearer's clothing during manual work.

A large roll of fabric as sold in a shop, wound around a flat cardboard or plastic core and holding many yards of material.

A short jacket with a fitted, ribbed waistband and cuffs, a front zipper closure, and a rounded collar, originating from military flight wear.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, historically whalebone and now plastic or steel, inserted into channels within a bodice to maintain a fitted, structured shape.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, of steel, plastic or historically whalebone, inserted into channels to shape and support structured garments such as corsets and strapless bodices.

A Japanese tradition of patching and mending indigo cotton textiles with layered scraps, born of necessity among rural families from the Edo period into the 20th century and later admired as folk art.

A buttonhole finished with folded fabric strips, or lips, instead of thread, giving a tailored, couture-quality opening usually made before the garment is fully assembled.

A finish in which a folded binding strip encases the raw edge of a seam allowance, stitched through all layers; used when a seam will remain unlined and visible.

A pleat formed by two folds turned away from each other on the front, creating a flat panel with fabric hidden behind it on both sides.

A close-fitting underwear or swimwear bottom cut with legs extending toward the upper thigh, offering fuller coverage than a bikini brief.

An undergarment designed to support and shape the bust, typically constructed with cups, a band, and shoulder straps.

An unstructured, unpadded bra typically without underwire, made from soft or stretch fabric and intended for light support or as outerwear.

A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.

A pattern alteration that adds width across the upper back of a bodice pattern, usually by slashing and spreading, to accommodate a back broader than the block assumes.

A tightly woven, plain-weave cotton or cotton-blend fabric similar to poplin but slightly heavier, with a subtle sheen from a calendering finish.

A whitework embroidery technique featuring patterns of small cut-out holes stitched around their edges, often sold ready-made as a fabric or trim.

A skirt with an outer layer gathered at the waist and again at the hem into a lining, creating a rounded, puffed silhouette.

Bag pattern with a round or oval base and cylindrical body that tapers slightly, typically closed with a drawstring, zip, or flap at the top.

A very stiff, heavily sized woven or non-woven fabric used to add rigid structure, notably in hat brims, belts and structured bag panels.

Lumpy, hard-to-press seams at corners or curves come from leaving full seam allowance width in places that need to fold or turn. Trim, grade, and clip curves to reduce bulk before pressing.

Excess fabric that folds or gathers at the underarm seam of a bodice or sleeve, typically caused by an armhole cut too large or too deep for the wearer.