Fabrics & materials

A lustrous, resilient animal-hair fibre from the Angora goat, known for a fuzzy halo and durability, used in sweater knits and specialty wovens.

Garment or product design approach that uses a single fibre type throughout fabric, thread, and trims so the finished item can be more easily recycled.

A plain-weave, low-cost cotton fabric ranging from sheer to coarse, commonly used for garment toiles and testing patterns before cutting fashion fabric.

A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet, corduroy or fleece, that reflects light and feels different depending on which way it is stroked; pattern pieces must be cut in one direction.

Fabric colouring method using dyes extracted from plants, insects, or minerals rather than synthetic dyestuffs, often requiring a mordant to fix colour to the fibre.

The numbering conventions, chiefly the European metric size and American size, used to indicate a sewing machine needle's shaft diameter and suitability for fabric weight.

A synthetic rubber sandwiched between fabric layers to form a thick, spongy, water-resistant material with body and structure, used in wetsuits and structured garments.

Interfacing made from bonded or pressed fibres with no grainline, cuttable in any direction, generally lower cost but with less natural drape than woven types.

A strong, elastic synthetic polyamide fibre with high abrasion resistance, used in activewear, linings and hosiery; melts rather than burns under heat.

A tightly woven cotton fabric coated with a waxed or vinyl finish to make it waterproof and wipeable, commonly used for bags, aprons and outdoor items.

A crisp, sheer plain-weave fabric traditionally of silk, now often polyester, used for structure, overlays and interfacing in eveningwear.

Fabric woven with pronounced horizontal ribs, heavier and stiffer than a plain rib knit, used for structured garments, coats, and accessories.

A folded strip of bias fabric enclosing a cord, inserted into a seam to create a raised decorative or defining edge along garment seams.

The simplest weave structure, formed by alternating single warp and weft threads over-under, producing a strong, stable, balanced fabric such as poplin or muslin.

A synthetic petroleum-based fibre valued for durability, wrinkle resistance and low cost; woven or knitted alone or blended with natural fibres.

A durable, easy-care lining fabric made from polyester fibre, resistant to wrinkling and shrinking though less breathable than natural-fibre linings.

An all-purpose sewing thread with high strength, low shrinkage and good elasticity, suitable for most woven and knit fabrics including synthetics.

A medium-weight double-knit fabric, usually of polyester, viscose and spandex, with a firm hand and good stability, popular for structured knit garments.

A tightly woven plain-weave cotton or cotton-blend fabric with a fine crosswise rib, crisp yet soft, popular for shirts and dresses.

Laundering fabric before cutting a garment to remove sizing, allow shrinkage, and test colourfastness, so the finished garment behaves the same way as the fabric was tested.

Treating fabric, interfacing or trims with heat or moisture before cutting so later shrinkage does not distort a finished garment.

Using an iron with an up-and-down motion, rather than sliding, to set seams, creases and shape during construction, done at each stage rather than only at the end.

A pre-made sandwich of face fabric, batting and backing stitched together in a pattern, used ready-made for outerwear without separate quilting.

A sewing machine needle with a tapered, sharp point designed to stitch through multiple layers of fabric and batting cleanly.

A stiff, lustrous bast fibre from the ramie plant, resistant to bacteria and shrinkage but low in elasticity, often blended with cotton or linen.

A stretchy tubular or flat rib-knit trim fabric used to finish cuffs, waistbands and necklines on knitwear, chosen for high recovery.

A stretchy knit structure of alternating vertical knit and purl columns, giving strong widthwise recovery; used for cuffs, neckbands and waistbands.

A narrow woven or knitted band of fabric, in materials from grosgrain to satin, used decoratively or functionally for trims, ties and closures.

A flat, zigzag-woven braid trim stitched to the surface of fabric as a decorative edging, traditionally in cotton.

The face of a fabric intended to show on the finished garment versus its reverse, distinguished by print, sheen or knit structure and marked before cutting to avoid mismatched pieces.

Lightweight synthetic fabric woven with reinforcing threads at intervals to stop tears from spreading, used for outerwear, bags, and outdoor gear.

Cotton fabric woven in a satin weave, giving a smooth, lustrous face similar to satin but with cotton's matte hand and durability, used for linings and bedding.

A weave with long floating warp or weft threads that pass over several opposing threads before interlacing, producing a smooth, lustrous surface prone to fraying and snagging.

Surface design method that pushes pigment through a fine mesh screen with a masked design onto fabric, producing crisp, repeatable printed motifs.

A thick, spongy double-knit fabric, typically polyester and spandex bonded in a neoprene-like structure, holding its shape well for fitted garments and appliqué.

A narrow woven or knitted tape stitched over a raw edge, especially a hem allowance, to prevent fraying without adding much bulk.

A lightweight cotton fabric woven with alternating slack and taut warp tension, creating a permanent puckered stripe that holds fabric away from the skin.

The tightly woven, self-finished edge running along both lengthwise sides of woven fabric that does not fray, often used as a grainline reference when cutting.

A zip in which the two sides detach completely at the bottom, used on jackets and cardigans that open fully rather than a fixed-bottom garment closure.

A base fabric, usually mesh or knit, with sequins stitched or glued on in rows, requiring seam allowances to be cleared of sequins before stitching.