Techniques

An invisible hand stitch worked between two folded edges, drawing them together in a closed seam commonly used to close stuffed items or linings.

A seam formed by overlapping two folded or finished edges and stitching through both layers, leaving no bulk underneath; used on interfaced or leather pieces.

A zipper insertion in which one side of fabric overlaps the zipper tape, concealing it under a flap of fabric, commonly used at side seams.

Detached chain hand embroidery stitch anchored with a small tacking stitch at the loop's end, commonly grouped in clusters to form petals or leaves.

A rippled, wavy hem edge created by stretching a knit fabric while stitching a narrow zigzag or rolled hem, causing the edge to curl and flute.

A separate inner layer of fabric that finishes the inside of a garment, hiding seams and construction while adding comfort and reducing friction against the body.

A buttonhole formed by a dense zigzag stitch worked around a slit, either with a buttonhole foot or an automatic buttonhole function.

A hem finished by turning the raw edge up once or twice and securing it with a straight line of machine stitching visible on the right side.

A short, straight standing collar that encircles the neck without folding over, named for its resemblance to Chinese formal dress.

A seam that imitates the appearance of a flat-felled seam by pressing both allowances to one side and topstitching them, without actually wrapping the raw edge.

A hem folded up a small, consistent width, often three to six millimeters, and stitched close to the fold; common on linings and lightweight fabrics.

A seam stitched with a narrow, short zigzag stitch on a conventional machine to allow the stitching to stretch with knit fabric without popping.

Hand applique method in which the seam allowance of a motif is turned under and stitched invisibly to the background fabric as the seam is sewn, favoured for smooth curves.

A tailored collar and lapel combination joined at an angled seam, creating a V-shaped notch where the two pieces meet.

Small, diagonal hand stitches worked in rows through canvas and fabric layers to permanently mold and shape a tailored collar or lapel.

A pocket made from a separate piece of fabric stitched directly onto the outside of a garment, with its top edge left open.

A flat collar with rounded, close-fitting corners that lies against the garment without standing up at the neckline.

A waistband faced or entirely constructed from ribbed petersham ribbon, molded with heat and stitched to sit smoothly inside a skirt or trouser waist without a separate facing.

A finish combining a line of straight stitching near the raw edge with pinking beyond it, adding fray resistance to lightly fraying fabrics.

A raw-edge finish made by trimming the seam allowance with pinking shears to create a zigzag edge that resists fraying without additional stitching.

A very narrow, stitched fold of fabric, typically a few millimeters wide, sewn in parallel rows as a decorative textural detail on blouses and fine garments.

A folded bias strip encasing a cord, inserted into a seam so a raised, corded edge shows along the seamline as a decorative or defining detail.

The most basic seam, formed by stitching two fabric layers together along a seam allowance with right sides facing, then pressed open or to one side.

Blunt-tipped hand tool used to push out fully stitched corners, such as collar points or pocket flaps, without piercing the fabric or fraying the seam.

A protective layer of cloth placed between the iron and the garment fabric to prevent shine, scorching, or direct heat marks during pressing.

Pressing both seam allowances flat in opposite directions from the stitching line, reducing bulk and producing a smooth, flat seam.

Pressing both seam allowances together in the same direction, adding strength and often required before edge-stitching or topstitching.

A variation of backstitch that picks up only a tiny amount of fabric on the right side, used to hand-set zippers or topstitch in couture work almost invisibly.

Three-layer assembly of a quilt top, batting, and backing fabric, basted or pinned together before quilting stitches pass through all layers to hold them in place.

A line of stitching worked through two or more layers with padding or wadding between them, both securing the layers and creating a raised decorative pattern.

A sleeve that extends in one piece to the neckline, joined to the body with diagonal seams running from underarm to collar instead of a set-in armhole seam.

Layered applique technique in which the top fabric is cut away to reveal fabric layers beneath, with the cut edges turned under and stitched to form the design.

A narrow tube of bias-cut fabric turned right side out, used for spaghetti straps, ties, frog closures, and thread loops.

Strip of fabric gathered or pleated along one edge and stitched to a garment or home-sewing project to add fullness and decorative movement at hems, necklines, or edges.

A simple, evenly spaced hand stitch made by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric in a straight line, used for basting, gathering, or light seaming.

A bold decorative topstitch, often in contrasting or heavy thread, worked as a running stitch by hand or machine along an edge or seam, associated with leather goods and casual tailoring.

Patchwork technique that pieces together leftover fabric scraps of varying size and print into a usable quilt top, a common way to use up sewing offcuts.

Liquid adhesive applied to raw fabric edges or thread ends to prevent fraying and stitch unravelling, commonly used on delicate fabrics or in place of a seam finish.

A seam finish in which one allowance is trimmed narrow and the wider allowance is folded over it and stitched down, enclosing both raw edges without extra binding.

A facing cut as an extension of the garment piece itself and folded back, rather than as a separate attached piece.